Aftelier- Candide

Candide by natural perfumer Mandy Aftel of Aftelier Perfumes is sweet, romantic, flirtatious and a bit risqué. Candied citrus and indolic flowers might not be a classic December perfumes, but it's fun and uplifting, so why not? Besides, I have a feeling that wearing Candide in the height of summer might be a bit too much, at least on days I'm actually planning on leaving the house and being around people. The way jasmine blooms in the heat might send the wrong message.

Candide opens up with a joyous and giggling citrus- it's bubbly, sweet and tinged with an impression of red fruits, though it doesn't even resemble the horrid department store berry note you find everywhere. It's easy-going and youthful without being juvenile. Soon after, jasmine comes into play and remains there for several hours. I get very little of the promised dry-down: if there are any frankincense, oppoponax and myrrh they've been swallowed whole by the jasmine. It might be a matter of skin chemistry, though. I've been known to be eaten alive by jasmine notes, only in this case I don't really mind. It's that much fun.

The jasmine in Mandy Aftel's Candide is round and full- it has curves and is not afraid to use them. It's definitely indolic to my nose (and to the husband's. So much, actually that he can't tolerate this perfume around him) and has all the dirty intentions in the world, but still maintains a certain sense of humor about it. However, Robin of NST didn't find the indoles all that prominent, so your impression may vary.

Candide by Aftelier ($150, 30ml EDP or 7.5oz extrait de parfum) can be purchased directly from aftelier.com . Samples and minis are also available. The sample for this review was supplied by the perfumer.

Please note that there's a 10% discount going on until December 13th with the code "holiday". As always, I'm in no way affiliated and have no commercial interest.

Tauer Perfumes- Eau d'Epices

The first thing I did upon reading Andy Tauer's description of Eau d'Epices as "an Indian basket of spices" was comb the note list thoroughly checking for cumin. Twice. Thankfully, no cumin was found, so I could wear the perfume around the husband (a spouse who hates cumin and works from home can make one's testing schedule a bit complicated).

Now that we established that Eau d'Epices is not Tauer's answer to Arabie and its back alleys of the Souk, let's talk about what it is (other than gorgeous). This is a classic Tauer in the sense of offering the familiar Tauerade accord in the dry-down: a balsamic cistus, ambergris and a dry woody thing in the background, but the potent potion is less assertive at first and gives a lot of breathing room both to the spicy opening and to the incredibly sensual floral heart. Eau d"epices is breathtakingly complex and requires a lot of attention the first few times you smell it. The fragrance takes you on an exotic journey and fills your mind with all kinds of Arabian Nights imagery (and not a Disney version, I promise). It's all there- the dancers, the rugs and the genies. From Aladdin's cave to sultry nights in opulent gardens and orchards around the Caliph's palace.

The thing is that once you make friends with this colorful vision, Eau d'Epice becomes warm easy to wear. Yes, one must love incense and spice, not to mention the Tauer accord, but if you do, this masterfully crafted and blended perfume  is a must-try for both men and women.

Eau d'Epices by Tauer Perfumes ($125, 50ml EDP) is available from Luckyscent and tauerperfumes.com. The sample for this review was sent for my consideration by the perfumer.

Art: Arabian Nights by Ione Citrine

Outlaw Perfume Project- Final Thoughts

First- It's about time I announce the winner of Notoriety by A Wing And A Prayer:

Conratulations to Hotlanta Linda! Please email me so we can make arrangements.

Now, for my thoughts.
More than a revolution or a rebellion, I see the Outlaw Perfume Project as something along the lines of the Rally To Restore Sanity. The IFRA issue has been discussed to death and still makes absolutely no sense. Everything else in the universe, from food to household detergents, has labels that warn those with allergies of possible irritants. Thus, allowing us to make informed decisions and purchases, avoid peanuts or shellfish if they have the potential to kill us and stay away from things that may cause a reaction. So why not apply the same logic to perfume?

For the record, neither the Outlaw Perfumes nor any vintage formulation that contains hazardous materials such as citrus oil, rose absolute, jasmine absolute, oakmoss and others has ever caused me an allergic reaction. I do get itchy rashes from items like many household cleaners, Dove soap, Herbal Essence shampoo, several hair styling products and probably other things I can't recall right now. But never from perfume.

Yes, I know the answer is complex and has a lot to do with business decisions some of the big houses have lived to regret. Yes, most prominent perfumers work for the Big Boys, and at first refused to talk, especially on the record. But we're at the point their artistic freedom has been so limited, someone (I wish I saved the source and exact quote) said the restrictions are the equivalent of a painter being forbidden from using the color blue. Once again, what happened to sanity and common sense?

Apparently, with independent perfumers. The Natural Perfumer Guild spearheaded the Outlaw campaign and proved that real perfume is still alive and well. Other perfumer outside of the Guild, both natural/botanical artists and those who rely on the entire spectrum of materials, have been doing their thing with vision and integrity for years now and ignoring IFRA. Of course, this (and other factors) means their ability to sell and market their work might be limited, and this is where we, as perfume lovers, come into play.

As much as it's tempting to stock up and hoard vintage perfumes on all their rose and oakmoss goodness, the prices of those has been steadily climbing, sometimes to insane levels. Personally, I refuse to pay three figure prices for bottles that used to be readily available and never considered high-end or luxurious. Frankly, it also goes to former department store perfumes that all of a sudden have become a rarity. Instead, I'd rather pay real perfume artists for their often handmade creations. Those among them who use the best raw ingredients give us some of the most unique products on the market. This is true luxury and I have every intention to keep supporting them.

How about you?

Photo: Jane Russel posing for the movie poster of Outlaw, 1943, from firstordergoods.wordpress.com

Ineke- Gilded Lily

There are several things worth noting about Ineke Ruhland's newest perfume, Gilded Lily. It's described as a fruity chypre, but just as Elena of Perfume Shrine commented earlier today, Gilded Lily doesn't seem to have much  in common with either the chypres of yore (if you want a true homage to the classics get the divine Mata Hari by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz), or with the modern ones. There's something in the way the perfume develops that might be the ghost of a chypre, but honestly, this label might be doing this lovely creation a disservice.

Then there's the issue of the gilded lily. I'm not the biggest fan of lily perfumes in general because they are just too big and floral and I'm just not the soliflore type. But there's no overwhelming feeling of petals and pollen here, no forced femininity (I actually find Gilded Lily to be perfectly unisex) and absolutely no gilding. Which leads us to my last point- Ineke has shown us here that one can compose a minimalist perfume that is not watery or boring. Gilded Lily doesn't suffer from the unbearable lightness of most minimalist perfumes (yes, I'm giving the stinkeye to Jean-Claude Elena and his followers). It's streamlined and almost stark- even the pale fruity opening doesn't bite or tries to take over- and I admit I'm having a hard time noticing where the pineapple and rhubarb come into play. It's more like a dried and slightly sweetened pink grapefruit rind. Later it becomes all about an abstract floral and pale woods, the cleanest (but not neutered) patchouli base with a tinge of pale green (I guess that's what was left of oakmoss in modern perfumery) and an overall quiet elegance.

If you spray enough, Gilded Lily will remain on skin for about 6-8 hours. You can actually really go to town with this one because it's relatively quiet and doesn't try to intrude on anyone's personal space. I would easily recommend this for what is called "office-wear" and for anyone who wants to be eased into indie perfumes but is having a hard time dealing with more assertive compositions.

I've come to really enjoy Ineke's style and Gilded Lily is no exception. The thing is that wearing it reminds me of sitting on my cherry-red sofa in my somewhat quirkily decorated living room while reading an interior design magazine dedicated to urban minimalism. I love looking at photos of city apartments with windows that take up a wall or two, stark white furniture with dove grey accents, glass, metal and a kitchen that appears to never ever be used for actual cooking. There are usually modern-cut crystal vases with a single lily or orchid in them providing the only splash of color in the room. It's gorgeous, enviable and utterly not me. But sometimes it's fun to pretend.

Gilded Lily by Ineke ($88, 2.5oz) is available from BeautyHabit and ineke.com. The 7 piece sample set ($25) is highly recommended. This review was based on a press sample provided by the company.

Art: Stargazer Lily by Declan McCullagh

Outlaw Perfumes- Light and Amberess by Anya's Garden

The last installment of the Outlaw Perfume Project (well, second to last, since I hope to write some kind of conclusion over the weekend) brings to us two outlaw creations by Anya McCoy of Anya's Garden. They represent two kind-of-sort-of opposite sides of the perfume spectrum- a citrusy cologne and an ambery floriental. Both genres are popular outside of the natural and niche perfume circle and it's a fascinating sensual experience to be able to smell and wear them in their true and raw form. And if you're even a little familiar with Ms. McCoy's work, you know it's never wishy-washy.

Light starts with a burst of a 3D citrus- full of fruit, juice and rind. It's so yellow and kelly green you can see the light and taste it on your tongue. The first couple of minutes seem like a sister fragrance to the beautiful Kaffir, but just when I thought I got it all figured out, the floral heart came alive. Rich, buttery and yellow- for a second there it reminded me of tuberose but not quite. A look at the cheat sheet revealed the floral heart is Aglaia, aka Chinese Rice Flower, which is apparently related to mahogany and smells divine. While many typical colognes combine citrus with their relative neroli (steam distilled orange blossoms) and often some kind of anemic blanched wood, the perfumer has chosen a resinous base of frankincense. It is surprisingly mild but does an amazing job anchoring the other notes and making them last for long hours. Next time I hear how citrus notes are always very fleeting so one shouldn't expect any lasting power, I'm sending whoever says that to have a chat with Anya.

Amberess is a true outlaw. Where Light only has the citrus and aglaia as its restricted ingredients, this diva is obviously trying to make the IFRA bureaucrats cry. This is copied straight from Anya's blog:

Top notes: none, in the true Oriental style
Middle notes: Zambian  Princesse de Nassau Rosa Moschata African musk rose otto and Musk rose absolute, Madagascan ylang ylang, South African rose geranium sur fleurs
Base notes: Indonesian patchouli, Himalayan amber oil, Turkish styrax, Greek labdanum, Peruvian tonka bean, Salvadorean balsam tolu, Balsam of Peru, Chinese benzoin, Madagascan vanilla

*red denotes untested or prohibited/limited aromatic

To me, Amberess is a creamy and feminine rose over a sweet amber base. It has an almost Turkish delight quality (for a second I can almost smell coconut, though it's obviously not there, just the nutty fullness). Amberess never goes sour on my skin, not even for a second. There's nothing green there, nothing fresh, just pure sensuality. This princess lounges in her velvet-lined boudoir, wearing layers of silk chiffon and indulging in  candy and men as she sees fit. I'll take a job as a lady-in-waiting for her. Or a full bottle.

Amberess ($125, 15ml EDP) and Light ($100, 15ml) are available online at anyasgarden.com. There's also a parfum extrait version and a sampling program. The samples for this review were supplied by the perfumer.

Art: Abstraction of the Bird Of Paradise by Marcia Baldwin.

Outlaw Perfume- Amazing by JoAnne Bassett

Who said chypres must be dark and brooding? Or that they have to be mysterious and film noir-ish? Chypres can also be sunny, fun and friendly, as natural perfumer and fragrance therapist JoAnne Bassett shows in her outlaw perfume, Amazing.

Amazing wasn't inspired by a tragic notorious outlaw woman but by the ingredients themselves- hence by nature and what it has to offer. And in the case of a natural perfume that doesn't bend to senseless restrictions, this is a lot. JoAnne Bassett took oakmoss, one of the most distinct and beloved notes in perfumery and blended in just about any essential oil and absolute that would play nicely with it, including 32 "outlawed" ones. The result is a playful and uplifting perfumes. The surprisingly complex citrus opening feels round and satisfying- this is not one of those fake cheap scents that use something grapefruity to claim freshness. Instead, Amazing is sunny and aromatic- it feels like a summer morning.

The citrus never disappears completely like one would expect from a lesser composition. It's still there when the heart turns floral with gentle jasmine and various roses and it's also around for the beautiful green dry-down. From bitter galbanum to velvety oakmoss- it smells natural yet very fragrant and distinct. I remember Ô de Lancome in its heyday, and even then this citrus-oakmoss blend was too harsh and lacked elegance (my mother used it as a household cleaning solution as she wouldn't have it on her body). Amazing is all the things Ô should have been but never was. It's funny now to note that I was a little worried that Amazing might be a little too hippie and more of an essential oil blend that a perfume, but this is absolutely not the case. JoAnne Bassett has created a worthy member for the Outlaw family, showing us why real oakmoss should never disappear from a perfumers palette.

This review is based on a sample sent by the perfumer (joannebassett.com).

Image from Charm Magazine, March 1959- myvintagevogue.com

Outlaw Perfume- Belle Starr by Artemisia Perfumes

"Shed not for her the bitter tear
Nor give the heart to vain regret
'Tis but the casket that lies here
The gem that filled it sparkles yet"

Carved into the headstone of Belle Starr

The true story of Belle Starr, the Bandit Queen, has been mostly lost to time and creative interpretations. Relationships with every wrong man she has ever met, violence and a tragic end (Belle Starr was rumored to have been murdered by her own son)- not the stuff of which perfume legends are usually made. But we're talking Outlaw Perfumes here, so just like the other muses for this project, a strong and fearless woman who took lovers, toted guns and ran a crime organization (maybe) is strangely appropriate.

The story of Belle Starr by natural perfumer Lisa Fong of Artemisia Perfumes is centered around jasmine. Jasmine, as we all know, can stink to high heavens if it's too indolic, or go the other way and turn into a bathroom product if it's too synthetic and cleaned up. The success of this Artemisia creation is in the way Belle Starr retains the fleshy dirty aspects but turns them into a smooth honeyed liquid that melds into the wearer's skin the way only a herbal perfume can do.

When I first tested Belle Starr without looking at the notes I could have sworn it was all about honey- a more floral relative of Miel de Bois with a dirty earthy side. Sniffing my neck a few hours later, the husband also said "honey", though he found it a little too sweet for his taste. It's interesting how the complex and mulit-layered jasmine note goes in and out, mixes with the mushroomy earth, dances with flowers and wood and smells new and unexpected because of the thick roobios absolute used to ground it.

 I wish the longevity was better than the 6 hours I'm getting, then again it doesn't exactly go away. It leaves a trace on the body that is not really a perfume, just an elevated level of skin scent. That's a quality I often find in natural perfumes and makes me appreciate them even more.

Belle Starr is not your typical jasmine. It's not your typical anything, really, and it's not trying to be. It doesn't try too hard to be easy or pretty, but it's still very wearable and sensual- as long as one can take the heat.

This review of  Belle Starr EDP from Artemisia Perfumes is based on a sample that was sent by the perfumer.

Art: a mixed media collage of a Belle Starr scrapbook by Tristan Robin Blakeman (tristanrobinblakeman.com)

Outlaw Perfume- Mata Hari by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz

**For more about the Outlaw Perfume Project, please read this**

When you search the Life.com website for Mata Hari photos you will find them with the tagline "Dancer, Stripper, Spy". Historical evidence shows she wasn't much of a spy, at least not a real double agent, but Mata Hari still paid with her life. Her notoriety had probably had something to do with that. She was a legend in her life and became an even bigger one when Greta Garbo put on the exotic headdress and took on the famous role.

This was the inspiration for the Outlaw Perfume Mata Hari by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz. The perfume does justice not only to the complex and mysterious women- both the spy and the actress who immortalized her, but also to the time period (the turn of the 20th century) and to the genre. Mata Hari is a fruity animalic chypre, and it doesn't get any better than that. Like many of us, I'm somewhat familiar with vintage classics. I own a few, but most of my bottles are from the early days. I have often wondered what the very first bottles of Mitsouko (1919) and other perfumes from that time were like. It seems like Dawn Spencer Hurwitz has given us a very good idea.

There's a lengthy list of notes on DSH website and on her blog, but deconstructing Mata Hari wouldn't be doing it justice, because this perfume is all skin, emotion and sensuality. There's a bitter bergamot opening, an exotic full heart of spice and pulpy fruit and a dry-down that is all leather, oakmoss and a gorgeous musk. The fact this is 100% botanical perfume is a(nother) wonderful testimony to the perfumer's talent and skill. It also proves a certain point regarding natural perfumery. The sillage is modest but the staying power quite phenomenal. I can still smell it on my skin 10-12 hours after application, and believe me- I've been using it sparingly.

The bottom line is that Mata Hari is a rich, dark and sensual perfume. When you wear it, the last thing on your mind is eco-whatever and the crunchy granola image of natural products. This is a real perfume, evocative and sexy. It lingers on skin, warms up and envelopes you discreetly (trust me- you wouldn't want Mata Hari to announce your and her presence to the entire boardroom or teacher lounge), draws in the few deserving ones and leaves a delicious leather and peach aroma on your sweater and (his) pillow. It's eye-rolling/toe curling good. Between this lively creature and DSH's other recent brilliant creation, Cuir et Champignon (review coming very soon), I'm in very deep trouble.

Mata Hari is a (very) limited edition (which makes me want to cry). You can read more about Dawn's inspiration for the perfume and the creative process on her blog.  A 5ml flask bottle is $85 while the beautiful antique bottle presentation (15 ml) will set you back $225 (dshperfumes.com). A sample for this review was provided by the perfumer.

**DSH is having a holiday sale at the moment- 20% off with code holiday10 (until December 13th).  **

Photo of Mata Hari in 1904: life.com

Kenzo Amour (EDP)

Reason eleventy seven why Sephora isn't doing a great service even for the brands sold there: I've tried Kenzo Amour countless of times at the store and all I got was cherry syrup. All the more subtle notes and nuances got lost in the Pink Sugar-Kim Kardashian saturated air.

The opening of Kenzo Amour is, indeed, very sweet (and that's coming from me, wearer of vanilla, immortelle and most honey perfumes known to men), but doesn't stay this way for too long, and things improve considerably, especially if one bothers giving it a generous spritz on actual skin and lives with it for a while. It becomes clear that there's a mellow wood note there, some delicate and quite sheer flowers- cherry blossom and frangipani, which aren't always my thing but in this case they're really appropriate and never become carnivorous (am I showing my pretty-flower phobia yet?).

The dry-down is all rice pudding. It's not as far out there as Kenzo Jungle L'Elephant, which explains why Amour eau de parfum is a popular fragrance while the poor Elephant has only a cult of rabid fans. On the plus side, Amour is hardly ever inappropriate and doesn't require planning ahead to wearing it. Yes, it's a gourmand, a comfort scent (the rice steam note is gorgeous) and vanilla-haters will not change teams upon testing this perfume. But it's not as low-brow as so many others in this genre and price level and above all, Kenzo Amour is pretty and friendly, and there's absolutely nothing wrong with that.

The success of the original  spawned a sequel, Kenzo Amour Indian Holi, an extrait version- Kenzo Amour Le Parfum and a flanker, Kenzo Amour Florale. I haven't tried any of them, but now I sort of suspect I should give the first two a fair chance.

Kenzo Amour ($56, 1oz EDP) is available from Sephora and many department stores.

2006 ad: masalachai.web.surftown.se

Outlaw Perfume- Notoriety by A Wing And A Prayer Perfumes- Giveaway

Jane Cate, the nose behind A Wing And A Prayer Perfumes, is responsible to one of my most favorites Mystery Of Musk perfumes, Tallulah B2. It's no wonder her newest creation for the Outlaw Perfume Project, Notoriety, is a standout. A stunning full bodied floral chypre, perhaps the most amazing thing about Notoriety is not how good it is, but the fact that every last essential oil and absolute used in its creation is now on IFRA's  restricted and prohibited list. This beauty, along with so many others, is what we're about to lose if nothing is done to stop the madness. What are these dangerous and notorious natural raw materials? Bergamot, rosewood, rose, wild rose, lavender, violet leaf, carnation, geranium, oakmoss and amber. Seriously.

Jane's muses for the perfume were three free-spirit women from days gone by who achieved notoriety. Etta Place, Isadora Duncan and Lillie Langtry. It is the latter who captures my imagination and connects me to this perfume. There's something about the distinct Victorian scandalous story and the royal romance. And Lillie  Langtry's friendship with Oscar Wilde. Who wouldn't want him as a BFF and mentor?

Rose, violet, carnation and lavender could  often be found at 19th century perfumed products. They can all be distinctly smelled in Notoriety, feeling feminine and a touch powdery. But the main story here is the rose on its many complex facets. It is very far from the various modern and synthetic interpretations of rose perfumes (sharing this quality with another Outlaw Perfume, Rose Of Cimarron)  and far more interesting. At first I thought about Notoriety as a warm and cozy rose, but venturing outside on a cold(ish) day had awakened the oakmoss and the unique smoky amber (I'm assuming ambrette seed) and exposed the full range of the perfume. It is, indeed, a chypre, tinged with something green (probably from the lavender), velvety and deep.

Now for the giveaway- a 1.7oz bottle of Notoriety EDP by A Wing And A Prayer Perfumes (wingandprayerperfume.com). One lucky winner will be chosen among those who comment on this post to answer this question:

What perfume ruined or discontinued due to IFRA regulation do you miss the most?

Photo of Lillie Langtry on stage as Cleopatra, 1891, from vintageephemera.blogspot.com

Outlaw Perfume- Rose Of Cimarron by Bellyflowers

*If you're new to the Outlaw Perfume Project, please read this first*

Long before Bonnie Parker fell in love with Clyde Barrow and joined his outlaw life, there was Rose Dunn in the Wild West. Fifteen year old Rose met professional outlaw George "Bittercreek" Newcomb and fell in love. Rose already knew how to ride, rope and shoot, but was more famous around those parts for her beauty and gentleness and was nicknamed "Rose of Cimarron". Her lover and his gang were busy robbing banks and stagecoaches and Rose got them supplies and tended their frequent gun wounds. Rose of Cimarron fared much better than Bonnie. Two years late, her older brothers had enough of their own outlawish ways, became bounty hunters and turned George & co. in when they stopped by to visit Rose. Lawmen killed the gang and Rose was an honest woman again and lived to old age as a politician's wife.

Perfumer Elise Pearlstine of Bellyflowers Perfumes created Rose of Cimarron as an homage to the woman who put her love before danger. The perfume starts sharp, peppery and a little menacing before the heart unfolds and it's all rose and jasmine, a little green and crisp but also as round and floral as they come. Wearing Rose of Cimarron for a couple of days made me realize that I've nearly forgotten what a true rose and jasmine perfume smells like. We've become too used to those synthetic department store variations, either a laundered rose in a dryer sheet musk or sticky rose over a too sweet plastic amber. The real thing is raw and foreign at first, before smells and mementos from long gone days start flooding one's memories. A precious vial of rose oil hidden in a drawer, sachets of rose petals, crisp white sheets with handmade embroidery and lace laundered and starched in the closet.

Isn't it astonishing that these very ingredients- rose absolute, jasmine absolute and ylang-ylang, materials that once perfumed just about everything, are now heavily restricted and regulated by IFRA, to the point that a scent such as this is an "outlaw"?

Rose of Cimarron's full and complex base (labdanum, patchouli, angelica root, ambrette seed, blond tobacco and amyris) is spicy and has a chypre air. I was actually surprised not to see oakmoss listed as a note because it seems like it's there, especially with the hint of soapiness I get here and there. In any case, once the abundance of pepper dries down, this Bellyflower creation becomes almost familiar and quite  easy to wear. Longevity is excellent and there's quite a lot of sillage for the first three or four hours.

Rose Of Cimarron by Bellyflowers ($40, 10ml) is available from the perfumer's website, tambela.com.

Photos of Rose Dunn from legendsofamerica.com

Outlaw Perfume: Daphne by Lord's Jester

*If you're new to the Outlaw Perfume Project, please read this first*

The first time I've smelled Daphne, the Outlaw creation of natural perfumer Adam Gottschalk of Lord's Jester, the lights dimmed and the room darkened. The intensity of this scent stunned me and for a brief second I wasn't sure if it was a good thing or not. But it is good. Most definitely.

Daphne, the perfume, was inspired by the story of Apollo and the nymph Daphne, but the first image my mind conjured was an old illustration  for Brothers Grimm fairy tales. Here was the Black Forest of centuries ago, looming and menacing, full of unspeakable evil and nameless creatures. Winnie the Pooh doesn't live here, for sure.

But this fairy tale by Lord's Jester has a happy ending. As the scent develops on skin it softens, opens up and sweetens considerably. The heavy branches move let some light in and you can see the velvet mossy forest floor under your feet. Soon enough Prince Charming will see the walls of the castle's gardens and smell the roses that grew wild and entangled for 100 years. And there inside there is a beautiful princess waiting, asleep, in all her sweetness. Daphne becomes honeyed and smooth, a rich oriental chypre that is a joy to wear.

Daphne by Lord's Jester Perfumes ($65, 10ml EDT) is available from lordjesters.com. The sample for this review was provided by the perfumer.

Art: Illustration for The Sleeping Beauty by Gustave Dore, 1867

Discontinued Perfumes - A (Very) Partial Guide

It's this time again- the questions about what exactly is no longer available have been piling up, so I thought putting everything into one updated list might be a good idea. In no particular order other than the notes I've been keeping:

Serge Lutrens
There were many rumors, denials and corrections. I've seen with my own eyes things constantly change on the Lutens website. As of November 2010 out of the four perfumes that were first rumored to be discontinued and then to only be withdrawn from the export line to become Salon exclusives (meaning not available in the USA), three are back in the rectangular spray bottles- Douce Amere, Santal Blanc and Chypre Rouge. They can even be ordered directly from sergelutens.com to the USA. The one perfume that has been withdrawn from the export range is Miel de Bois. Is this final? Who knows. Uncle Serge can't give a straight answer even when you ask him what time it is. Right now, Miel du Bois is available in Europe as an exclusive bell jar and you can order it online, but browsing the site I've found a second list of the non-exports that does not include MdB, which might mean doom (and I'm saving screen shots, so when things shift again I'd know I'm not crazy).

Tom Ford Private BlendFour perfumes have been discontinued: Bois Rouge, Purple Patchouli, Moss Breches, Velvet Gardenia.

Yves Saint Laurent
While just about everything seems to be unrecognizably reformulated, the only ones that have been discontinued are Y and Nu.

Miller Harris
The parfum concentration of Fleur Oriental is no more. everything else is intact and available.

L'Artisan
Dzing!, Ananas Fizz and Vanilia were discontinued.

JAR
Shadow. Blame IFRA.

Lancome
The entire La Collection was discontinued. They should have also killed Magie Noire instead of letting it (and us) suffer the current formula.

Paco Rabanne
La Nuit and Calandre are goners. I doubt anything left there smells anything like it used to.

There are many more, of course, these are just the ones I've been asked about most recently/more often. Generally speaking, when you're trying to find the fate of a favorite perfume your best source is the company itself- either through their website or contact them directly. Don't rely on SAs at your local mall who usually only know what their own store carries and to them everything else is "discontinued". Also, please remember that rumors on various message boards are not gospel.

If you have questions or additions, please comment.

Outlaw Perfume: Gypsy by Providence Perfume Co.

I remember now.

Perfume is an art. It creates pictures. It tells stories and stirs memories and emotions. Or, at least, it should.

Big corporations, focus groups, politics, marketing and mass marketing and most of all IFRA regulations have almost  taken it away from us and made us forget what it feels like to wear real perfume. But now, wearing Gypsy by perfumer Charna Ethier, I remember. And I don't want to let go.

Technically speaking, Gypsy is a dark amber with a touch of green fougere. If I were an abstract painter trying to capture Gypsy I'd paint my canvas black-based brown, maroon and brick red, let the colors bleed into each other and then incorporate some forest green veins. But Gypsy is only abstract if I let it be. It's a warm, breathing thing, human and personal and makes me think of the way other countries seemed to me as a child.

I go back to times before I had a clear map of the world in my head and was only discovering the wonder of foreign languages- people speaking in magical tones. My parents had guests from different corners of the world- long lost relatives and old friends coming from as far as South Africa and East Europe. They stayed up  late, drank mysterious and strong smelling liqueurs that had beautiful labels on their dark  bottles, wore strong perfumes and brought gifts that smelled of mystery.

Gypsy has all that and more. I consider it wearable by both men and women, though my husband's chemistry brings out something a little too sharp, while on me it's as soft and luxurious as I could have ever hoped. According to Charna Ethier "Most of the botanicals used in comprising Gypsy Eau de Parfum are posted on IFRA's list of banned/restricted ingredients".  The main notes are-

Top: galangal, lavender, lemon, petitgrain, and cardamom.
Heart: pink lotus absolute, Bulgarian lavender and green violet leaf.
Base: tonka, oakmoss, vetiver, patchouli, costus, and vanilla

But it's all about the blend- spicy, sensual, dark and sweet. It feels romantic and mysterious. It's incredibly long-lasting (easily more than 12 hours). A full bottle is now on my ever-growing wish list, a sentiment that seems to be shared by Ida from Ca Fleur Bon.

Gypsy is part of the Outlaw Perfume Project. The sample was provided by Providence Perfume Co. (providenceperfume.com).

Today's question: What was the last perfume that made you feel a strong emotion? When was that?


Art: Gitana II by Fabian Perez

Olivier Durbano- Amethyst

Amethyst by Olivier Durbano has been one of my secret weapon perfumes for several years now. I wear it a lot in the summer, when I want an incense-wood perfume that is not too dry but would not drown me in sugar water, either. I also wear it in cool weather because it's warm enough. And because it's so pretty.

Jewelry designer Olivier Durbano (what is it with jewelers and perfume? Not that I'm complaining) used gemstones as the inspiration for his perfume line. I admit I only love one other of his fragrances, the smoky Black Tourmaline. Amethyst, with its soft and sweet notes is quite the opposite of Black Tourmaline, yet both work on my skin, and both have large dozes of incense. Amethyst is both dry pencil shavings and candied wood. I went to dig out a sample of Lauder's Sensuous for reference, in case someone asks, but there really is no comparison. Sensuous is almost flat next to Durbano's perfume and lacks the incense and touch of smoke. Amethyst is more gender-neutral. It's complex  and complicated but still easy to wear. It  even works in the most suffocating humidity (though August in NYC makes it burn and evaporate too quickly) and feels quite clean.

The purple candy impression I get from the top notes doesn't last very long. It's replaced by a the familiar peppery note that accompanies incense. The dry-down has an oriental feel: sandalwood, amber and a hint of non-foody vanilla. But this is not a Guerlain. Amethyst is lighter than any of the classics and doesn't have that tonka bean depth, for better and for worse. It has a very modern feel without resorting to minimalism. My (second) decant is nearly empty. I think that means something.

Amethyst by Olivier Durbano ($175, 100ml EDP) is available from Luckyscent.

All images are from olivierdurbano.com. It's amusing to note that purple is really not my favorite color. Looking at Durbano's jewelry, these are the ones I liked best:

Outlaw Perfume- The Revolution Has Started

I first became aware of IFRA and the restriction of certain perfume ingredients sometime around the end of 2005 or the beginning of 2006. I was already an avid reader of perfume and beauty blogs but had yet to start my own. I've read that some classic formula had to be changed because IFRA, a weird organization of which I've never heard before was trying to eliminate raw materials that could cause skin allergies. But none of this made much sense. Skin allergies? I was certainly familiar with those being very sensitive to a bunch of soaps, detergents, hair and body products and very common household products. They give me a rash so I do my best to prevent skin contact. All these items were clearly labeled with "if a rash develops discontinue use". So I discontinue use just as I read the labels on food, medication and cat treats. This perfume issue could not be true, right?

Only it was. And soon it became clear this wasn't just about oakmoss. There (among many others) went lavender, certain rose absolutes, pure jasmine, lemon verbena and citrus oil. Yes, the stuff you get on your hands, raw and undiluted, every time you peel an orange or zest a lemon. And why was IFRA insisting on restricting to the point of neutering or outright banning ingredients in perfume while everything else from bleach to peanuts only gets a warning label? Because according to the EU, people who use perfumes cannot be trusted to read labels. Seriously.

One by one beloved perfumes were changed to the point they became unrecognizable and the industry kept quiet. Guerlain changed some formulas and discontinued others, Chanel (still!) kept denying anything was going on, pretending loyal customers were either dumb, anosmic or both and everyone else followed suit. It's their livelihood, after all.

It became clear that if anything was going to change, if anyone was going to say "enough!" it was not going to be the big corporations. They'd just keep on churning bottle after bottle of bland synthetic dreck, put all their money into marketing and shiny ad campaigns and pray we wouldn't notice. But we did and we still do. The answer seems to be coming from the indie perfumers, especially those dedicated to cultivating and using the best natural ingredient the world has to offer.

The Outlaw Perfume project is one such effort. The Natural Perfume Guild headed by Anya McCoy is embarking on creating a series of perfumes that would make IFRA itch. Made from the good stuff and smelling like perfume should smell, every Outlaw perfume will have a clear warning label. It's up to us to use them right. This project is backed by several bloggers and websites and will include reviews and exciting giveaways. Here are the other participating writers:

Elena at Perfume Shrine
Pat at Olfactarama
Donna at the Examiner.com
Carol at Waft by Carol
Beth at Perfume Smelling Things
Felicia at Fragrance Belles Lettres
Lucy at Indie Perfumes
Ida, Mark and Monica from Ca Fleure Bon

So, here's today's question: When did you become aware of IFRA and its influence on the perfume industry? What was the first reformulation you noticed?

Top image: Brigitte Bardot and Serge Gainsbourg as Bonnie & Clyde, 1968
Outlaw Perfume logo: Anya McCoy

Histoires de Parfums- Noir Patchouli

Noir Patchouli from Histoires de Parfums is somewhat of an enigma. Sometimes it feels like a femme fatale of a perfume, all black velvet, dimmed lights and a skirt with a slit up to there. However, at times the very dry base gets the upper hand with its gender ambiguity and a brisk attitude. And that's perfectly fine, too.

Noir Patchouli is a dark scent from its spicy opening to the very complex base. It's a little loud at first but then develops a quiet assertiveness- it will be noticed without poking anyone in the eye. The initial sillage calms down very quickly and one is left with a very personal and sensual veil of smoky wood. The use of patchouli in every stage feels very modern. It showcases the note among almost-sweet spices, dry woody notes and blended with musk, vetiver and leather in a more traditional setting (I cannot smell the promised oakmoss to save my life, but considering the restriction on the use of this ingredient it's not really surprising). The end results settles beautifully on skin without a hint of neither cheap headshops nor the often-found dirt and chocolate.

It took me a few wearings to realize how easy it would actually be for a man to wear this Histoires de Parfums creation. At first I was too focused on Noir Patchouli's tactile qualities- the softness and the way it smells when I stick my nose inside my own sweater. Of course it's feminine- it smells like me. But the dry and woody aspect, not to mention the smoky vetiver with a hint of leather would appeal to most men. They just have to love patchouli.

Noir Patchouli ($185, 4oz EDP) and the rest of the Histoires de Parfum line can be found at Henri Bendel in NYC, Beauty Cafe and Mio Mia in Brooklyn (as well as online).

Art: Portrait of the Duchess of La Salle by Tamara de Lempicka, 1925.

Frederic Malle- Le Parfum de Thérèse

Yes, I know everyone is waiting for reviews of the new Frederic Malle, Portrait Of A Lady, but until I get my hands and nose on that one let's talk about one of the greatest beauties of all times, a perfume that in many ways shaped the Frederic Malle Editions de Parfums line.

While Le Parfum de Thérèse was launched by Malle in 2000 it was conceived decades before as one of the most romantic perfumes of all times. Master perfumer Edmond Roudnitska created Therese for his wife- how awesome is that? (I'm still fantasizing about Le Parfum de Gaia, the most perfect amber to ever be created)  It's wonderfully clear Roudnitska has put all of his creativity and love into this one. He composed a perfume that feels as though it could have been the crown jewel of his classic Dior perfumes- the haute couture version, perhaps.

On paper or in theory, I never expected to love Le Parfum de Thérèse- fruit notes (plum and the dreaded melon), an aquatic accord, assorted flowers- mostly jasmine and rose and a wood/leather base underneath it all. It sounds like a recipe for a spectacular hot mess, but then again, so does Roudnitska's Diorella, which I love (in its original pre-reformulation form). In reality, the beauty of the composition reaches me from the very beginning. The fruit is a lot more plum than anything else and the melon is not really melony- it's about the impression of sweet ripeness along with every sexual connotation of which you may think. The fruit alone could have made the perfume heavy and cloying, and combining it with big flower notes is one risky move. But the rose is quiet and thin and the jasmine is among the most gorgeous of its kind. Indolic? Not on my skin, but it is fleshy and sensual. Now, what is referred as the aquatic accord is woven carefully into the silky fabric of Therese. I don't get any of the stomach turning notes that usually accompany such a thing (hello, Un Jardin Apres la Mousson). It's light and cool air more than water- there's movement somewhere in there, which balances the other notes and opens them up.

The beauty of the top and heart notes is built on an exquisite base- it feels like a chypre but a modern one in the sense it doesn't poke you in the ribs with an oakmoss-patchouli stick. Don't get me wrong: I love the grand chypres of yore and few things irk me as labeling anything with patchouli as a modern chypre. But here in Therese, a 1950s composition, I've found the true meaning of that term. It's smooth, rich and obviously leans heavily on classic perfumery traditions, but the way the fragrance moves, breaths and develops doesn't suggest "vintage" at all.

Le Parfum de Thérèse is a glorious summer day but also wears amazingly well with tailored coats and knee-high stiletto boots. This Malle/Roudnitska marvel is always right. It's a celebration of optimism and love, and in my mind would make a wonderful wedding perfume for any gender.

Le Parfum de Thérèse ($95 3x10ml travel refills) is available at Barneys and Frederic Malle Editions de Parfums boutiques around the world.

Model wearing a Dior cocktail dress by F.C. Gundlach, Paris, 1962

Maison Francis Kurkdjian- Absolue Pour Le Soir

When perfumer Francis Kurkdjian launched his own brand in 2009 it was clear the man knew what he was doing. The perfumes were well-composed, accessible and friendly. They were a great fit for most upscale boutiques and department stores where shoppers were interested in a prestigious name, good quality and chic but wearable fragrances. I liked a couple of them, though not enough for a full bottle, but was mostly bored. I guess I'm just not that into accessible and friendly.

The recently released Absolue Pour Le Soir, an intense interpretation of Kurkdjian's Cologne Pour Le Soir, is of a different caliber. Cologne is cuddly and polite but neutered. Absolue is animalic, and that probably would sum it up for many. It's not the cumin note that would separate lovers from haters. I find the cumin used by Kurkdjian to be at a very tolerable level and even the husband has yet to complain (he thinks Absolue is not particularly strong. All I say to that is: Seriously!?!?).

Absolue Pour Le Soir is mostly honey- honeyed rose, honeyed incense and honeyed kitten. I'd venture a guess that people who find Onda, Ferme tes Yeux, CB Musk, Miel de Bois and MKK despicably vile would also consider Francis Kurkdjian's Absolue too much like a dirty barnyard. If, however, you belong to the group who wears these scents for their fuzzy touch and sweet warmth, APlS is probably right up your alley. It's gorgeous in that real perfume way where cumin is just a spice that brings out other qualities in a scent and keeps it from going all treacle on one's skin. I tested it by spraying as well as dabbing and I definitely prefer to spritz- the skank develops more fully this way. Just use with caution.

Absolue Pour Le Soir ($175, 2.4oz) is available at most Maison Francis Kurkdjian authorized retailers from Bergdorf Goodman to Luckyscent. Aedes should be getting it soon and there's also the perfumer's Paris boutique (5 rue d'Alger).

Image: myvintagevogue.com

Estee Lauder- Azuree

A bold leather chypre is among the last things one would expect to find in the Estee Lauder lineup. But one of the most wonderful fragrant secrets is Azuree, a 1969 Bernard Chant creation that is still available today. The marketing story for Azuree was something about Estee Lauder's villa in the French Riviera and the colors of the Mediterranean, but honestly, I don't see it. Azuree doesn't feel blue and sunny at all. It's related to other vintage leathers like Cabochard, Armani (1982) and even Bandit. It takes the wearer as far away from the Lauder yenta image as possible. It's an urban and elegant perfume. Not to mention sexy.

Azuree starts green and more than a little bitter. The aromatic herbs might be that Mediterranean connection, but this is not a bouquet of Herb de Provence, nor is the abundance of citrus in the top notes making Azuree light and fresh. It just adds to the bite and crispness of the scent. It means business and isn't afraid to say so. Before the dark oakmoss and leather dry-down appears there's a beautiful and restrained floral heart. It's not girly and not sweet: Azuree never stops being quite wearable for a man. Instead, the flowers- jasmine, geranium, rose and cyclamen (I sometimes also smell carnation, but it might just be an olfactory illusion)- tone down the perfume, though just a little. They keep it balanced and not too loud (a common issue with many a Lauder).

The dry-down is a chypre lover's heaven. Dark, a little smoky (the patchouli is doing its thing here in the best possible way)  and very leathery. It feels warm and familiar- not cuddly but also not the larger-than-life dominatrix of Bandit. I wonder how many of Azuree fans are ones who've known it for years and how many came to love it in the last decade. Estee Lauder is not doing anything to promote it- many (most) stores either don't stock it and if they do it's kept under the counter, just like the original Private Collection.

My own bottle, labeled as "Perfumed Cologne" is very old. It smells better than the testers I tried at Ulta, but they are still recognizable Azuree (I can't guarantee it's the same for the actual current bottles. I doubt the testers see much use). At $35 for 2oz Azuree is still one of the best deals in town.

Photo: French singer Sylvie Vartan, French Elle, November 1969