Outlaw Perfume- Notoriety by A Wing And A Prayer Perfumes- Giveaway

Jane Cate, the nose behind A Wing And A Prayer Perfumes, is responsible to one of my most favorites Mystery Of Musk perfumes, Tallulah B2. It's no wonder her newest creation for the Outlaw Perfume Project, Notoriety, is a standout. A stunning full bodied floral chypre, perhaps the most amazing thing about Notoriety is not how good it is, but the fact that every last essential oil and absolute used in its creation is now on IFRA's  restricted and prohibited list. This beauty, along with so many others, is what we're about to lose if nothing is done to stop the madness. What are these dangerous and notorious natural raw materials? Bergamot, rosewood, rose, wild rose, lavender, violet leaf, carnation, geranium, oakmoss and amber. Seriously.

Jane's muses for the perfume were three free-spirit women from days gone by who achieved notoriety. Etta Place, Isadora Duncan and Lillie Langtry. It is the latter who captures my imagination and connects me to this perfume. There's something about the distinct Victorian scandalous story and the royal romance. And Lillie  Langtry's friendship with Oscar Wilde. Who wouldn't want him as a BFF and mentor?

Rose, violet, carnation and lavender could  often be found at 19th century perfumed products. They can all be distinctly smelled in Notoriety, feeling feminine and a touch powdery. But the main story here is the rose on its many complex facets. It is very far from the various modern and synthetic interpretations of rose perfumes (sharing this quality with another Outlaw Perfume, Rose Of Cimarron)  and far more interesting. At first I thought about Notoriety as a warm and cozy rose, but venturing outside on a cold(ish) day had awakened the oakmoss and the unique smoky amber (I'm assuming ambrette seed) and exposed the full range of the perfume. It is, indeed, a chypre, tinged with something green (probably from the lavender), velvety and deep.

Now for the giveaway- a 1.7oz bottle of Notoriety EDP by A Wing And A Prayer Perfumes (wingandprayerperfume.com). One lucky winner will be chosen among those who comment on this post to answer this question:

What perfume ruined or discontinued due to IFRA regulation do you miss the most?

Photo of Lillie Langtry on stage as Cleopatra, 1891, from vintageephemera.blogspot.com

The Mystery Of Musk- Part 2

Reminder: The Aftelier giveaway is still open for comments here

We continue the natural musk-less musk adventure. I'm  anosmic to some musks (I tested some of the oils and blends they sell at Whole Foods and couldn't smell several. Many of those were labeled "Egyptian Musk"), but when I can actually smell them, they are among the best things to ever happen to my skin. The sultry dirty warmth sits very well with me, as is obvious by looking at my personal collection. Experiencing the different musk stories couldn't have been more enjoyable (remind me I said this if we ever do a vanilla project)- I'm not just in my element, I'm in my catnip.

Drifting Sparks from Artemisia Natural Perfume begins smoky and woody. The very animalic quality remains there even as the scent takes a sharp turn and morphs into a big white floral centered around jasmine. It's a bit shrilly on me, but at the same time I can't keep my nose away from my arm when wearing it, trying to follow the progression and constant change and movement. There's a salty quality, sea air that drifts closer and then goes away for a while only to reappear and bring with it a hint of smoke and fire from afar. That's where the musky quality becomes so apparent. My favorite part of Drifting Sparks is the dry-down. The blend of smoke, salty skin and sweetness is a great interpretation of the theme. While it doesn't live long enough on my skin, the two  hour journey is exhilarating.

Tallulah B2 by Jane Cate from A Wing & A Prayer Perfumes started so citrusy I was worried at first I got the wrong sample. A juicy blend of grapefruit, orange and mandarin is not how I'd expect a musk perfume to open. Then came the sweet and creamy vanilla, but before one can say Theorema, the scent becomes soft and incredibly fuzzy. It's like smelling Theorema through a thick layer of cashmere- an interesting and pleasant sensation, though not necessarily one I'd connect with the legendary Tallulah Bankhead.  But a serious shape-shifting takes place after a while- a very familiar musk appears on my skin and the first time I tried it had me floored- It smelled like a softer version of MKK. That sweet and warm no-longer quite clean skin scent that has a hint of fruit and a whole lot of promised pleasure. I have a feeling this dry-down would have won Ms. Bankhead's approval. It certainly won mine. Longevity is good (more than six hours), sillage lower than low- this is a skin scent if there ever was one.

More musk tomorrow and a big giveaway on Wednesday. In the meantime, please visit the other participants in the project:
I Smell Therefore I Am
Olfactarama
Perfume Shrine
Indie Perfumes
Bitter Grace Notes
CaFleureBon
First Nerve
Olfactory Rescue Service
Grain de Musc

Photos:
Jane at Sunrise by Leora Long
Tallulah Bankhead, photographed by Carl Van Vechten, 1934