Discontinued Perfumes - A (Very) Partial Guide

It's this time again- the questions about what exactly is no longer available have been piling up, so I thought putting everything into one updated list might be a good idea. In no particular order other than the notes I've been keeping:

Serge Lutrens
There were many rumors, denials and corrections. I've seen with my own eyes things constantly change on the Lutens website. As of November 2010 out of the four perfumes that were first rumored to be discontinued and then to only be withdrawn from the export line to become Salon exclusives (meaning not available in the USA), three are back in the rectangular spray bottles- Douce Amere, Santal Blanc and Chypre Rouge. They can even be ordered directly from sergelutens.com to the USA. The one perfume that has been withdrawn from the export range is Miel de Bois. Is this final? Who knows. Uncle Serge can't give a straight answer even when you ask him what time it is. Right now, Miel du Bois is available in Europe as an exclusive bell jar and you can order it online, but browsing the site I've found a second list of the non-exports that does not include MdB, which might mean doom (and I'm saving screen shots, so when things shift again I'd know I'm not crazy).

Tom Ford Private BlendFour perfumes have been discontinued: Bois Rouge, Purple Patchouli, Moss Breches, Velvet Gardenia.

Yves Saint Laurent
While just about everything seems to be unrecognizably reformulated, the only ones that have been discontinued are Y and Nu.

Miller Harris
The parfum concentration of Fleur Oriental is no more. everything else is intact and available.

L'Artisan
Dzing!, Ananas Fizz and Vanilia were discontinued.

JAR
Shadow. Blame IFRA.

Lancome
The entire La Collection was discontinued. They should have also killed Magie Noire instead of letting it (and us) suffer the current formula.

Paco Rabanne
La Nuit and Calandre are goners. I doubt anything left there smells anything like it used to.

There are many more, of course, these are just the ones I've been asked about most recently/more often. Generally speaking, when you're trying to find the fate of a favorite perfume your best source is the company itself- either through their website or contact them directly. Don't rely on SAs at your local mall who usually only know what their own store carries and to them everything else is "discontinued". Also, please remember that rumors on various message boards are not gospel.

If you have questions or additions, please comment.

Paco Rabanne- Calandre

One of the interesting things about Paco Rabanne's 1969 Calandre is how this pleasant aldehydic floral was considered edgy when it first came out. While there were plenty of flowery perfumes on the market (with or without an aldehydic opening), and green chypres were also quite popular, there was something about Calandre that registered differently and is a little harder to decipher today.

The first 20 minutes or so of this Paco Rabanne creation has what my husband refers to as a "vintage accord". Can you tell he's not generally a fan of aldehydes (or florals, really)? Truth be told I wasn't sold on Calandre the first time I gave it a full wearing until the green notes started to emerge. I also suspect that the citrus in the top notes in one of my older bottles are no longer in their prime, as I seem to remember Calandre as a little more lemony and only slightly bitter. But it all changes ones a very green hyacinth kicks in with something hay-like on its footsteps. It's softer than one would expect, probably because of the abundance of other flower in the heart, especially a dry rose. Paying attention to the perfume at this stage reveals just how masterfully its blended and how fitting it was with the Paco Rabanne fashion line.

As a chypre, Calandre has less of an oakmossy kick than some others. It actually dries down to an almost skin scent, just a bit green. It's not very strong but utterly satisfying if chypres are your thing. There's a casual elegance to this scent, as though you picked the bottle simply because it was there and it just fits with whatever your plans are for the day. I can see how at the time it was a great first date perfume, very appropriate for the office but never ever boring.

Calandre has an interesting history and back story. You can read more about it on this Perfume Shrine review. Please note that a few months after Elena wrote her post, Calandre was, indeed, discontinued and confirmed so by Puig, the company that owns the Paco Rabanne perfume license. Since then the prices online have been climbing up, though it's still possible to find a bargain here and there.

Images:
Calandre 1971 ad- vintageadbrowser.com
Paco Rabanne fashion photographed for French Vogue, 1969: fuckyeah60sfashion.tumblr.com (probably NSFW)

Ralph Lauren Safari For Women

I bought my first bottle of Safari by Ralph Lauren soon after it came out because I loved his original Lauren. I also liked the romance behind the name- probably because I was thinking about the imagery in Out Of Africa, Robert Redford and that wonderful scene where he washes Meryl Streep's hair. In my teenager mind it was the most romantic thing ever (still do, actually. But to this day there has never been a man brave enough to face my 2.5' of waves and curls). I wanted Safari to evoke just that.

I remember thinking back then that Safari was a little too pretty. I liked it well enough and even finished the bottle (it was the gorgeous lay-down version), but it took me about 15 years to buy another one. Safari didn't smell like it belonged in the early 90s and I wasn't sure how it fit with Lauren's Long Island horsey-set image. It smelled more... French, I guess. The green aldehydic opening, overabundance of flowers and gorgeous chypre base could have easily been a Chanel. Now that I think of it, none of the modern Chanel perfumes from the regular line (not the Exclusifs) has been even half as good as Safari.

I have a few older Safari bottles that are clearly the original formula, including the discontinued parfum. I smell a lot of galbanum and hyacinth which my nearly middle-aged mind translates now as romantic in that heartbreaking, full of longing way. The green and wood notes are dry and crisp and show a lot of elegance and restraint. The patchouli-moss-soft leather base (more pronounced in the parfum) clearly didn't fit in with the early 90s style- it was too perfume-like in an era of non-perfume opposites: you either had to smell like candy (see Angel and all the horrible mall vanilla and fruit body sprays) or like chemical nothingness (someone please slap Issey Miyake for me). Even the bottle- a vintage looking carved glass beauty- didn't belong.

It's no wonder that Safari has disappeared from the shelves that sell the Ralph line. For a while it was hard to find except for occasional appearances at places like TJ Maxx. From quick sniffing and spraying the current version at a couple of the discount outlets it's clear that the formula has changed for the very worse. It's a floral something or other without the galbanum, oakmoss or any of the notes that used to give Safari its  backbone. Despite rumors to the contrary, Safari (or what's left of it) is still in production and can be purchased on Ralph Lauren's American website: $60 for the 2.5oz EDP. The notes are listed there as "An exotic medley of floral and citrus notes gently warmed with the essences of Bourgeons de Cassis, Jasmine Italian and Fleur d'Oranger". I wouldn't bother.

Images:
Safari ads from 1993-1994, couleurparfum.com
Meryl Streep and Robert Redford in Out Of Africa (1985) from ew.com
Verushka in a YSL safari suit by Franko Rubartelli for French Vogue, August 1968

Shu Uemura Rouge Unlimited Lipstick (RD 198, PK 360)

I bought these two Shu Uemura Rouge Unlimited Lipsticks months ago and promptly misplaced both. I was thrilled to rediscover and make them part of my makeup rotation, only to learn this week that Shu Uemura's parent company, L'Oreal, was pulling the entire brand of the USA market. According to WWD, L'Oreal prefer to concentrate the marketing effort on its other major brands (I don't think they ever pushed Shu very hard in this country), and limit the distribution of Shu Uemura to regions where it's already a best seller (i.e. Asia).

It's really sad, as Shu Uemura is a great brand with a lot to offer and many dedicated fans. We can't have too many quality options and the line always had something unique to offer, even for those of us who weren't into extreme false eyelashes. I especially love the packaging- even now that I have a storage system with separate drawers for each major shade of lipstick, being able to actually see the color at a glance is very helpful.

But back to the colors at hand. Rouge Unlimited RD 198 is as true a red as they come. It has a muted satin finish, an incredibly rich pigment and the tenacity of Madonna. It stays put for hours and holds on for dear life. You can still see enough color even after having lunch, though it loses the finish. The lipstick isn't drying and my lips remain healthy looking even after spending a full day with it (two reapplications). I love it very much and usually wear it with an almost bare face (or at least what appears as an almost bare face. You and I know  the secret).

PK 360 has a more conventional look and feel. It's a low key red-based pink with shimmer and medium+ pigment. It's a great everyday color, low maintenance and no drama. It doesn't rock my world like the RD 198, but I reach for it when I'm not in the mood to make big lipstick decisions.

Since Shu Uemura is being phased out, it looks like the stores have stopped restocking sold out colors. I don't remember if I bought these two lipsticks from Barneys or Nordstrom, but it looks like they are no longer available from the major retailers and have moved on to the realms of shady discounters. Your best bet is to check with local counters and see what they still have.

All photos are mine.

Discontinued? Out Of Business?- Ask The Non-Blonde

There's only one issue that gets me more comments, emails and direct messages on Twitter than mascara: Brands and products that disappear from the market. The last few years have been brutal for many companies, resulting in a lot of confusion among customers. Let's try to make heads and tails out of this mess.

Has Prescriptives gone out of business?
Yes. The brand was shut down by the owner, the Lauder Group. Their fragrance, Calyx is still made, though. You can read more here and here.

Is Estee Lauder going out of business?
A world of NO.
Some of their less successful brands aren't safe, though.

What happened to Fendi perfume(s)?
All of them, including the original Fendi and Palazzo have been discontinued. Some online retailers still have a limited stock, but the prices have been climbing up.

What's the story with Crabtree & Evelyn?
While the company has filed for Chapter 11 (bankruptcy protection) it is still alive and producing its products. I might not be all that thrilled with the quality of its lotions and soaps lately, but many staples like the hand creams and scrubs are the same.

Is Annick Goutal going out of business?
No. The company has actually just released a new scent. There have been some distribution issues in the US, but things have gotten back to normal. It looks like the new distributor is going to keep a tighter control, so don't expect to see many Goutal products at discounters once they sell their current inventory.

Is MPG (Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier) a goner?
Even though for a while it certainly seemed dire with boutiques closing and the bottles disappeared from stockists all around North America, it was another case of a distributor going belly up. As of now Henri Bendel in NYC is carrying the line again.

Is it true that Chanel Hydrabase lipsticks are being phased out?
Yes. As is often the case when a company introduces a new spiffy line, they get rid of older formulas. The new Rouge Coco is fabulous (I'll review and show photos later this week). The same goes for the older Dior single eye shadows, by the way. They've been replaced with the new 1-Color Extreme.

Is Le Metier de Beaute exiting Liberty London?
No. The counter is moving, but Le Metier de Beaute is going strong and expanding. You will soon be able to find their products in a couple of other prestigious London locations and also in Paris.

Do you have more questions about discontinuations and product availability? Let me know and I'll do my best to find out.

Annick Goutal Eau du Fier

Eau du Fier is one of those perfumes that make me wonder if I actually enjoy the way they smell or the fact they're so unusual and unconventional. It's probably a mix of both, since this Annick Goutal creation (by house perfumer Isabelle Doyen) is not the only tarry perfume I like. But there's something to be said for the uniqueness and element of surprise whenever I spray myself with it.

Eau du Fier smells mostly like a cocktail of Lapsang Souchong with a splash of non-sweet orange juice. The opening is extremely smoky, medicinal and would challenge many people's idea of perfume, unless they're familiar with CDG Tar, Tauer's Lonestar Memories or at least Bulgari Black and Tea For Two by L'Artisan. Still the last two have a nice dose of vanilla that makes them go down easily enough, while the Goutal has little to none sweetness. My skin tends to neutralize heavy smoky notes and reduces them to their woody or shrubbery origin. Eau du Fier becomes very much a tea scent with an almost sheer quality. It's a lot less heavy than one would assume after the birch tar assault of the top notes and settles very close to the skin, feeling more exotic than avant-garde.

I enjoy the entire journey and find it very wearable on days I don't have to mix with the general public which might raise an eyebrow at a woman who smells of a burnt substance. It's not a perfume I'd recommend to wear for a romantic date for either men or women, unless the object of your desire is a tea connoisseur who would appreciate the nuances. Still, the bottom line is that Eau du Fier smells good in an off-the-beaten-path way and is worth becoming part of one's perfume journey. If you can find some, that is.

Eau du Fier was released in 2000 and vanished from our shelves around 2005. A few European Annick Goutal boutiques had it until a couple of years ago and while the official Goutal website doesn't even mention its existence, a handful of bottles still make an appearance overseas, which is how I found and purchased mine.

Photo: theteacentre.com.au

Serge Lutens- Where Does He Go From Here?

The perfume industry isn't what it used to be. We've known it for a while, years actually. Some optimistic but severely misguided souls tried to comfort themselves that while the big names, traditional houses and huge designer brands are all about the money and thus happy to comply with both IFRA and their CFOs and discontinue scents left and right, we will always have niche.

But niche houses, big and small, have their own bottom line to consider. Gobin-Daude disappeared into the ether, the exact status of Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier remains unclear, but they haven't updated their website in a couple of years and their NYC retailers only have a handful of bottles still remaining (if any). They haven't received a new shipment in ages. Other great brands have been phasing out perfumes left and right. Tom Ford said from the very beginning that the Private Blend line will change over time. Underperformers will be replaced with other scents. Sadly, the first victims of the policy have already been announced (Bois Rouge, Moss Breches, Purple Patchouli and Velvet Gardenia. All of them deserved a better fate). JAR had to stop producing the magnificent Shadow, most likely because of IFRA's oakmoss restriction. Annick Goutal had to reformulate the classic Eau d'Hadrien because, apparently, citrus oil is a weapon of mass destruction. But the worst news yet broke yesterday when Elena of Perfume Shrine posted about Serge Lutens sending four of his fragrances to the big Palais Royal in the sky.

This is a first for Serge Lutens and has shocked and devastated many fans, me included. Uncle Serge has been honest and upfront (well, as much as his Holy Crypticness can be) about the reformulation issue. It's no secret that the new version of Feminite de Bois isn't the same as the old Shiseido one. The same goes for Chergui. There were persistent rumours about the future of Miel de Bois after it was pulled from the export range and placed in the more exclusive bell jar. Between the scent's lack of popularity and an issue with the raw materials being placed on IFRA's black list, MdB was doomed. But no one saw the other ones coming: the relatively new (though admittedly not the biggest seller) Chypre Rouge and the two classics Douce Amere and Clair de Musc. The latter is especially surprising as Clair de Musc was considered by many a Serge for beginners and a layering essential. It really seemed like it was selling relatively well. Obviously, not well enough.

The axing of the four perfumes was not the only disquieting news from the Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido. The most recent release, L'Eau Serge Lutens, had many of Uncle Serge's biggest fans scratching our heads. It was not just an "anti perfume". It was an "anti Serge", "anti Lutenade" and anti everything we've ever expected to emerge from the famed purple halls. Speculations were aplenty. From Papa Serge always doing the unexpected to simply selling out. Since Elena's review was as favorable as it was insightful, I was ready to believe it was his way of telling the world "You wanted clean? Here, let me show you how to do it right". Sort of flipping the bird in his very refined and ironic way.

But the latest news seem to be pointing to another, sadder direction. Have the Powers That Be at Shiseido, Uncle Serge's financial backer, started to put their foot down? Did they tell him to start making money, or else? Did they tell him that any new release must have a mass market appeal and smell shower fresh?

This is nothing but speculation of course, but my guess is that dear Uncle Serge is not going to have his art be dictated by bureaucrats and bean counters. As Elena has mentioned, he has hinted in the past that might go do something completely different. We've always known that perfume is not his be all and end all and he can always have Chris Sheldrake whip for him a special batch of extra strength MKK. It's us who are losing here big time and might be left with nothing but this.

Photos of Uncle Serge: luxuryculture.com

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Ylang & Vanille

Ylang & Vanille is one of the few Aqua Allegoria perfumes that actually feels like a true Guerlain. It's heavier than the average Aqua, denser, and probably doesn't appeal to the young as much as was expected. The first word that came to my mind to describe Ylang & Vanille was "pillowy". What I mean is a heavy comforting softness, almost down-filled.

All of the above makes Ylang & Vanille to be a little weird. Add to that the extreme creaminess that comes from heavy use of Ylang-Ylang, a hint of something dirty and a not very harmonious floral note. There's jasmine there, but on some days I could swear I'm smelling full blooming white lilies in the heart of the perfume, and I can't say it makes me too happy. It's a temperamental scent, for sure. I usually enjoy wearing this Aqua Allegoria more than all of the other ones I've tried, but when it doesn't work I find myself scrubbing by mid-day, because something about the flowers there annoy me too much.

As for the vanilla promise, this ain't Shalimar. It's also not a foody vanilla in any way, so those who avoid pastry shop notes shouldn't skip Ylang & Vanille out of cupcake trauma. Instead, it's smoky and quite grownup, and you can kind of trace the connection between this vanilla and some of what you get in Spiritueuse Double Vanille, only without the extra booze and the other trimmings that make SDV into the vanilla orgy that it is.

Bottom line: On a good day I can sniff this forever.

Guerlain, as they often do, have discontinued Aqua Allegoria Ylang & Vanille. I got my bottle (4.2 oz EDT) online where they can still be found, though the prices have been steadily creeping up.

Image: abeachcottage.com

Jil Sander Woman 2

Apparently vintage Jil Sander perfumes were chypres. Jil Sander Woman III was a robust one in the classic fashion, with a full floral heart and a gorgeous rich drydown of oakmoss-patchouli-vetiver. Its predecessor, Woman II (launched in 1982 or 1983, depending on the source), is a greener chypre, with an aldehydic opening and a hyacinth-galbanum heart (or at least that's what my nose says) similar to Chanel No. 19. Seriously, every time I wear Jil Sander 2 there's a moment I get a whiff of myself and try to remember when I sprayed No. 19 and what version, only to remind myself it's actually Woman II.

Later in the drydown the mean green starts sharing the limelight with a very dry wood base. I couldn't find even a shred of reliable information about the actual notes, but I'd go out on a limb and guess cedar and probably also some really good sandalwood, only without the sweet creamy quality we often associate with it. Would it be a complete blasphemy if I said that more often than not, I actually prefer this Jil Sander creation to Chanel 19? It's friendlier, for one thing, and softer, maybe not as leathery as the vintage Chanel.

Smelling and wearing Jil Sander Woman 2 reminds and reinforces the huge loss of real chypres to the world of perfumes. As far as I know, Woman II and III were discontinued long before the long hands of IFRA killed the genre. They probably fell out of favor when this style was labeled "dated" by the patron saints of fruity-florals. I would also guess that nowadays bitter greens wouldn't be marketed under the name Woman, and indeed, I'm pretty sure Woman 2 would smell fabulous on a man, though I have yet to allow the husband anywhere near my vintage bottles.

Fashion photo by Arthur Elgort for Vogue, September 1982.
Bottle of Jil Sander Woman 2 by me.

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Winter Delice

There are a two problems with the very delightful Winter Delice. First, the fact that it was discontinued four or five years ago. Second is that this fragrance was reissued in 2008 as part of Guerlain's ultra-exclusive and mind-blowing expensive Four Seasons set. I saw it in Paris in the summer of 2008 and was utterly annoyed by the idea that they pulled Winter Delice from the Aqua Allegoria line (at the time they were priced just under $40, which is hard to believe in today's market) so they could put it in fancy crystal bottle and sell it to heads of crime organizations looking for glitzy gifts for their mistresses.

The other issue with Winter Delice is that it smells so much like an environmental scent- a very posh reed diffuser, maybe- that it hangs around me in a lovely aura but never actually melds with my skin. It's a little hard to explain. After all, it smells so nice, but it just a bit cold and impersonal in a way I never experience with other Guerlain perfumes. It might be the delicate pine-incense note. It makes me think of spa products and atmosphere more than of the actual snow covered evergreens. The spicy gingerbread notes suffer from a similar problem. It's not the real cozy kitchen where cookies are baked and rosy cheeked children lick the bowls, only an impression of it, like lighting a scented candle to instantly create an ambiance.

I still like Winter Delice. It smells good and is fun to wear this time of the year, like a red cashmere sweater.

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Winter Delice can sometimes be found on eBay. Several online retailers still have the mini bottles priced around $15.

Photo of Rita Hayworth from stirredstraightup.blogspot.com

Tom Ford Private Blend- Velvet Gardenia

Smelling Tom Ford's Velvet Gardenia, one understands how some of the Private Blend scents started as ideas and experiments for the creation of Black Orchid. I adore Black Orchid. It's lush, thick, and has layers upon layers of gourmand and earth notes wrapped around the floral heart. The EDT version, Voile de Fleur, is more about the gardenia, only in a cleaner, simplified way. Velvet Gardenia, on the other hand, is something else.

If you're familiar with JAR's Jardenia, you've met the other side of this lovely flower. The cheesy over-ripeness, the hint of decay, dirt and unwashed bodies. It's somewhat melancholy and reminds one of the inevitable death. Velvet Gardenia doesn't go quite that far and doesn't really play with mortality thoughts, but there is more than a hint of the flower just past its prime, together with some of the earth caught in the plant's root.

Velvet Gardenia isn't the easiest scent to wear and would probably put off someone expecting a pretty, floral-tropical perfume. It doesn't always behave on my skin, and warm weather brings out a harsh metallic note that bothers me. On good days, though, it dries down into a gorgeous sweetness that makes me want to dive into my own pores and remained cocooned in it forever. Serious gardenia fiends would be smart to check it out, especially if Jardenia isn't in your budget. If you like it, you'd better stock up, as Velvet Gardenia is one of the Private Blend fragrances that is being phased out.

Tom Ford Private Blend scents ($180, 1.7 oz) are available from top department stores and Tom Ford boutiques worldwide.

Image: Gardenia In The Dark by Georgia.Peaches on Flickr.

Tom Ford Private Blend- Purple Patchouli

Today's edition of "What was Luca Turin smelling?" is brought to you by Purple Patchouli from Tom Ford's Private Blend. Labeled in The Guide as a "harsh floral" and declared a green chypre "with a rasping floral accord reminiscent of those sticky spring blooms that smell halfway between fish skin and honeysuckle", it was probably not the biggest seller of the 12 original Private Blend perfumes. But not because of any fish skin issue, if you ask me. Purple Patchouli's downfall was most likely that it smells like a real perfume of yore- a dark, big flower looming behind a sweet leather screen. For some odd reason, people don't want to smell like this, and that's a very sad thing.

I don't know about patchouli. I don't smell much (if any) of it in Purple Patchouli. But it sure smells purple. While I agree with Dr. Turin about a chypre leaning, it's definitely not green when I wear it. It's sweet, but doesn't cross the line into candied violets, and have I mentioned this perfume is dark? There's certainly an image of a weird and exotic flower, a mutant orchid ensconced in a beautiful leather case. It's elegant, noticeable and feels very feminine, though I'm sure some men can pull it off. For me, it requires a hat and a matching nail polish. This season's Vendetta from Chanel comes to mind.

Purple Patchouli is one of several scents from the Private Blend line that are being discontinued . It is still available ($180 for 1.7 oz, $450 for 8.3 oz) from the top department stores.

Photo by Richard Avedon for a Harper's Bazaar fashion spread titled Ultra Violet, 1958.

More About The Discontinued Tom Ford Private Blend Perfumes

Apparently, I was wrong.

When I first confirmed the news about Tom Ford discontinuing several of the Private Blend perfumes, I mentioned I wasn't buying the statement about the changes being planned from the very beginning. I was wrong, as you can see in this WWD article from February 2nd, 2007. In the interview, Tom Ford himself says:

"The scents that are successful will stay; others, we'll edit out"

Basically, the entire Private Blend has always been on a probation of sort. The good news is for Tobacco Vanilla fans- this one isn't very likely to disappear any time soon. The bad news is that we, as a focus group, have failed poor Moss Breches and didn't buy enough bottles to keep it alive.

I'm not sure how I feel about the whole thing. The husband and I had a lively discussion about it. He finds the concept and Ford's statement refreshingly honest. I see it as more than a little cynical. Crazy perfume people tend to describe their favorite lines and scents in romantic terms of art and vision. We've read too many Serge Lutens interviews, I guess. But we mustn't forget that perfume is also a big business and both Tom Ford Beauty and the Private Blend were developed and backed by Lauder money. And Lauder, unlike Uncle Serge, is here to make serious buck.

Bottom line: If you're a Purple Patchouli fan, you might want to consider getting that big 8.3oz bottle, as I hear that one is a goner, too.

How do you feel about this issue? Please share your thoughts.

Tom Ford Private Blend- Discontinued Scents

Rumors have been circulating for weeks now about the possibility that several of Tom Ford Private Blend scents being discontinued. I've contacted the company and received a reply:

"The strategy for Private Blend has always been to add and remove scents as the collection evolves."

Since 2009 has seen the launch of eight new Tom Ford Private Blend scents (not including Grey Vetiver which is part of the regular line), it looks like changes are afoot there. While I couldn't get a confirmation which perfumes are on the chopping block, it seems that several stores overseas have already removed Moss Breches, Bois Rouge and Velvet Gardenia.

I don't know if I buy the claim that the Private Blend has always meant to have scents come and go. It's more likely that they simply get rid of the ones that underperformed. I can't really see Tom Ford axing the best sellers. In any case, it's quite sad and I wish Ford would learn a lesson from Uncle Serge, who has a more interesting strategy of moving perfumes between the export and the exclusive lines.

Image: my butchering of a photo from Bergdorf Goodman.

Thymes Filigree Discontinued

If you're a fan of the Filigree range from Thymes, you'd want to do some stocking up, as this fragrance collection is being discontinued. The products are still available for the full price on their website (thymes.com), and you are very likely to find them discounted locally at stores carrying the line.

This makes me worried about the future of Goldleaf, which was the sister scent of Filigree (though much more popular, I think). I also just realized they no longer offer any environmental oil for lamp rings and burners, which really sucks. I don't use candles because of the cats, and reed diffusers, while not dangerous, are not exactly feline-proof. I know that companies need to renew and innovate, but regularly discontinuing products that have a loyal fan base isn't the best business move. One of the contributing factors to Crabtree & Evelyn's troubles was exactly that- long time customers started feeling betrayed and stayed away.

Gobin-Daude Nuit au Desert- A (Very) Lost Perfume

A long, long time ago (2002, actually) there was a talented French perfumer. Her name was Victoire Gobin-Daude. She launched a line of five natural perfumes made of the highest quality raw ingredients, inspired by her dreams and memories of living in faraway lands. The perfumes were sold in few but prestigious locations and had a small but loyal cult of followers. It wasn't enough, though. Lack of financial backing and spotty distribution caused her to stop producing by the end of 2005.

The remaining bottles were quickly sold out, a few made a brief and expensive appearance on eBay, decants were snatched at whatever price the sellers named and then there were no more...

This should give you an idea how I felt when a partial bottle of Gobin-Daude Nuit au Desert was offered at a semi-reasonable price on Basenotes. I never had a chance to smell it before, but I was not going to let the opportunity escape. A short correspondence, a quick monetary transaction and Nuit au Desert was mine.

Many of you reading this know the feeling. You've been through a similar experience of finding a rare fragrant treasure, be it a bottle of long gone masterpiece or a hard-to-find contemporary scent. You've torn the outer packaging, scattered the packing peanuts (to the joy of household pets) until you reached the box. Sometimes there's the careful ceremony of cutting the cord and breaking the seal, releasing an old glass stopper and then... dabbing or spraying of the precious.

(Yes, I know)

Since Gobin-Daude perfumes are actually spray bottle of an EDT, there was not much of this mystique going on, just the feeling of discovery and revelation. Another step in my olfactory education. What I found in my Nuit au Desert bottle was a beautiful scent, not as strange as some of the online reviews led me to believe, but different and outstanding enough. The first impression was of smoky wood , dry and earthy with a touch of exotic (not church-like) incense, a burning bush in the desert. It's as unique opening note as they come. It took me several wearing to discover that in order to smell and feel the full development of this scent, I had to spray quite all over myself. Then the heart reveals itself and it's surprisingly fruity, in the best sense of the word. There's something round sweet but not quite ripe that stays close to the skin. The fruit is a bit abstract, but mostly reminds me of a purple plum. It's smooth, dark and sensual but more pulpy than juicy.

The rest of the scent is creamy and woody. The insert in my box mentions cedar and agarwood, but I wouldn't be surprised to find out there's more than a touch of real sandalwood. It walks the line of ambery sweetness, but manages to remain dry. There's a soft, dreamy, enveloping feeling that makes Nuit au Desert into the work of art it is: A good perfume takes you places, geographic and emotional, which is exactly what Victoire Gobin-Daude has achieved with this fragrance.

Photo: Moon light night at central desert of Iran by Babak A. Tafreshi

Jean Patou Ma Liberte - The Lost Perfumes

Ma Liberte from Jean Patou was launched in 1987, a year that saw Glenn Close boil a bunny, Jon Bon Jovi livin' on a prayer, Bono still not finding what he was looking for, and the major events in my 17 year old world were acquiring and losing my first boyfriend and lamenting the disbanding of my beloved Smiths.

Other perfumes from that year include my long time favorites Panthere de Cartier and Tiffany, LouLou by Cacharel which my sister used to fumigate her bedroom, the classic elevator clearer Passion from Elizabeth Taylor and 66 others, most, just like Ma Liberté, are now discontinued.

If it were launched today (probably not by the fallen house of Patou, now part of Proctor & Gamble's toothpaste empire), Ma Liberté could have easily been a unisex niche scent. It completely lacks the shoulder pads or any of the characteristics of that decade and there's no way you'd imagine Nancy Reagan wearing it.

Ma Liberté has an elegant modern feel and a perfect balance of a crisp, almost light top and a warm, slightly dirty base. I get a lot of lavender in the opening, and something green and citrusy. The former stays on while the latter fades as the spicy, somewhat abstract floral notes make their soft entrance. But most of the perfume and what makes the lengthy drydown is a gorgeous leather-tobacco note that stays on forever. I get 10-12 hours of this perfumes (my bottle is the EdP), and while its sillage is restrained, there's no mistaking it in your very personal space.

It's this drydown that makes Ma Liberté both unisex and unique. The leather is soft and the tobacco warm, dry and inviting. It gives a rich and sophisticated feeling, as though you're in the know of a secret or two, but never ever (and I've worn it on a couple of really hot days this month) gets vulgar.

Just another reason to sigh about Jean Patou's fading glory.

Ma Liberté by Jean Patou was officially discontinued a few years ago. Bottles of the EDT are still available online for around $40. I don't know how much they differ than the EDP, which is what I reviewed here. The higher concentrations pop from time to time on various sites like eBay and Basenotes.

Top photo: an 1987 cover of French Vogue, featuring the amazing Christie Turlington
Bottle and Giselle: both photos are mine

News from JAR: Shadow Discontinued, Al Palazzo to Launch Soon

My Bergdorf visit today was bittersweet. The JAR alcove has been calling my name, but when sitting down for a sniffing, only six scents were presented. Shadow is no more, according to the (wonderful) JAR rep because one of the raw materials is no longer available and couldn't be replaced. JAR doesn't reformulate, substitutes or compromises. Since Shadow could no longer be made the way it was conceived, it was sent to Great Fragrance Counter in the sky, to sit with Hermes Doblis, Shiseido Nombre Noir, Guerlain Djedi and Tauer Orris.

I don't know which ingredient was responsible to Shadow's demise, as JAR notes are kept secret. The SA said twice that it was an availability issue and not a consequence of regulation, so your guess is as good as mine. It's sad. I was very fond of this earthy, damp leprechaun of a scent.

The good news is the new JAR that is expected to be launched right before the Holidays. The name is subject to change, according to the SA, but most likely will be Al Palazzo and it takes the line in a new, interesting direction.

It was sweet. Really sweet. But not in a conventional amber or vanilla way. It moves from raw to burnt sugar, has a wet feeling but never crosses the line towards the cliché or the cloying. There's a burst of a bright green, herbal note (mint? tarragon?) and very little (if any) of the typical JAR darkness. I think I got something a bit spicy, but the It's probably more accessible than anything else in the line (other than maybe Golconda). There's only a small spray tester available at the moment, and JARs are meant to be dabbed, so this is only a partial impression. I'll need to go back (again and again), but I suspect this is a serious new love. It's quite gorgeous.

Image: Iris brooch by JAR from blog.jeaninepayer.com (a very interesting artist by her own right)

Sonia Rykiel 7e Sense - The Lost Perfumes

You don't get to hear much about Sonia Rykiel's first perfume, 7e Sense (1979). It has vanished off the shelves in the mid 80s and seems to have been forgotten. It's not very surprising, though, considering the shift in taste and trends. In an era when people are constantly looking to smell like their clean laundry, a dark animalic beast as 7e Sense doesn't really fit in the designer market. And what an animal it was...

The opening of this Sonia Rykiel creation starts with some seriously old aldehydes. My tiny bottle isn't exactly fresh and it takes a minute or two before the blast from the past settles down and reveals what's underneath. There's a feeling of an aged, exquisite fruity liqueur, dark and syrupy, being poured into crystal glasses. You can almost see the dim, candle-lit, velvet-draped room in which this rendez vous is taking place. Long black gloves, a slinky dress, soft murmurs. It's a cliche, I know, but the setting for this perfume simply cannot be an ordinary date at a hook-up bar. It's about strangers on a train, Lady Chatterley and her lover, Isadora Wing's sexual adventures... take your pick. Just not Jennifer Aniston and her ilk.

The progression of 7e Sense is a lesson in animalic notes. It's raw, leathery and warm, and I wouldn't be surprised to learn there's some real castoreum or civet in this juice. This is not for the faint of heart or for the easily offended coworker. There's some barnyard in it and a lot of human bare skin. I find it captivating and engaging, but I'm not sure about wearing it in the company of non-perfume-people.

I have a tiny bottle of the parfum extrait, bought on eBay. There aren't many of these floating around, so I cherish every little drop. The ladies at The Perfumed Court have the EDP (just as rare), so one can obtain a sample and weep a little.

Ads of 7e Sense: Okadi.com

Laboratoire Remede: Changes

I had a completely different post planned for tonight about treatments for skin emergencies. While gathering shopping information I realized that although I knew that Laboratoire Remede have changed their packaging (finally! the old tubes and jars were horrible), I haven't checked what happened to my favorite products (I've stocked up the last time Bliss had a sale).

The good news is that they still have a vitamin C serum. The updated version, Intensive Double Sèrum, seems to combine their old Super C serum with my other favorite Remede product, Double Oxygenating Booster, which they have discontinued. It was the best troubleshooter I've ever come across and killed breakouts before they actually flared up. According to Bliss website, the new Intensive Double Sèrum is a multitasker and we can still use it as a spot treatment, just like with the old product. I sure hope they know what they're talking about.