Cle de Peau La Creme

When do the big guns become too big?

Do we really need a $500 per oz moisturizer?

For me, it all comes down to visible results. I'm willing to pay for a serum that makes sun damage fade faster, for a moisturizer that heals stressed skin and for anti-aging products that keep my face younger looking. As long as I can see that. I don't care much for the faux-science babble on boxes and inserts, this molecule or that molecule, bio-something or other, magical orbs... whatever. Just make me look pretty.

My expectations are within a normal range. It's not that I hope a cream would make my nose smaller and my chin more pronounced. It's all about having a smooth, supple and even skin, or at least its equivalent for someone pushing 40. And so far so good. Most serious companies that have the research budget offer us a wide array of very effective products.

The problem starts when a product is obviously good- like Cle de Peau's La Creme. It's an excellent moisturizer that also has anti-aging and brightening properties. I can't really comment on the latter because I've been faithfully using Cle de Paeu's Anti Age Spot serum and seeing wonderful results for months now. My skin hasn't been so even since my teens. I'm also using several other excellent products, mostly by Lancome and Kanebo Sensai) that replenish moisture and retain it. When temperatures drop, after flights and/or on skin emergencies I reach for the miraculous Erno Laszlo PHormula 3-9. They all work.

If I were to go for a full jar of La Creme (I've been going through several samples and travel size GWP jars for the last six weeks) would I be able to forsake all other skin care products? Would I use cheaper cleansers, only one drugstore serum and nothing else? No brightening serum? No masks? It's highly unlikely. And does La Creme gives me better results than my trusty Secret de Vie? Not at this point.

Decision made.

Cle de Peau La Creme ($500, 1oz or $750 1.7oz) is available at select department stores.

Clinique Moisture Surge Extended Skin Relief

It's been years since I stopped using Clinique skin care products. Like many of us, I used to swear by their 1-2-3 system, but then it stopped working, gave me an allergic reaction and I realized my skin was becoming too dry, despite supplementing the classic DDM lotion with the (then) newly released Moisture Surge gel. While I liked this formula well enough, it was left behind when I switched to a more intensive regimen.

I received a travel size jar of Moisture Surge at a recent GWP event and absentmindedly put it in the "miscellaneous skin care " drawer (I have a system. Don't give me this look). I started using it on days when I apply my makeup several hours after my regular morning skin care routine- I like a little extra TLC before applying my primer, but there's no need for anything too active. While Moisture Surge wasn't working for me as a skin treatment and doesn't do much (anything) in the way of restoring or firming, it's an excellent moisturizer that hydrates and plump the skin without any greasiness or shine. I give it a few minutes to sink in, put on my primer and continue as usual. I don't have a scientific proof, but it seems that this extra hydration is helping my makeup look fresh even longer than normal. It works just as well with silicone primers as it does with creams.

Bottom line: I might need to make this a permanent part of my makeup routine.

Clinique Moisture Surge Extended Skin Relief ($34, 1.7 oz) is available from department stores everywhere, Sephora and clinique.com. I got it as a GWP.

Photo: Water surge at Noccalula Falls in Gadsden, Alabama by G. Denardo, 2004

Kanebo Sensai Cellular Performance Wrinkle Repair Cream

One thing I've learned in the last four or five years is that skin care really matters. It won't make you taller, skinnier or smarter, but good skin care used consistently (religiously, actually) makes a world of difference in the way we look. And feel.

It's not always a question of price, gold packaging and a formula made of Martian minerals and unicorn tears. Independent studies and my own forehead have shown that the $22 No. 7 serum from Target is an extremely effective wrinkle correction substance (these studies say nothing about battle scars you get when fighting other shoppers over the last bottle on the shelf). But when it comes to face creams and moisturizers with anti-aging properties, the more research and advanced technology that goes in the product, the better it can be. While this means a hefty price tag, it's usually worth it.

I've been using Kanebo Sensai Cellular Performance Wrinkle Repair Cream for the last couple of months. I don't have any serious wrinkles (and we all know that there's only so much a face cream can do once they actually set in), but I can confirm a case of a very happy skin. The Cellular Performance cream does an excellent work on the nourishing front. My skin looks and feels plump and very smooth. A few days of use revealed an extra radiance, and no matter what- it seems to retain a high level of moisture, which is probably half the secret of the Kanebo Sensai products I've encountered so far.

I've been using the Cellular Performance cream alternately with my Holy Grail, Lancome Secret de Vie. The Kanebo Sensai product is thicker and takes a little longer to absorb, so I prefer it at night. When I wake up in the morning there's a visible difference in the liveliness of my skin. My husband, of course, has no idea what I'm talking about.

Bottom line: I wouldn't expect miracles, but it works very well.

Kanebo Sensai Cellular Performance Wrinkle Repair Cream ($240, 40 ml) is available from Bergdorf Goodman. I was provided with a press sample by the company.

Image: sensai-cosmetics.com

Underachievers And Underperformers

There are so many great products on the market and it's hard enough to keep up with them. I usually manage to avoid the really awful ones, but what about the ones that aren't horrible, just don't perform as you would hope?

Here are a bunch I've encountered in recent months. Please comment if they happen to work better for you.

Boots Time to Cleanse- Time Dimensions deep cleansing wipes
I always have makeup removal wipes on hand, even though it's not the most effective method. You know those nights when one step cleansing is all one can manage? That's when cleansing cloths are a life-saver. I usually use the regular ones in the greenish packaging, but my Target isn't known for being well-stocked at all times, so I picked these instead. They clean, sort of, if you insist and rub your face enough. Not exactly what I want to be doing. Following with a toner solves the problem, but that defies the purpose.

Guerlain Success Future Day Care SPF 15 Wrinkle Minimizer
I've gone through several sample tubes before giving up. It's a daytime moisturizer with SPF 15, but it's just doesn't deliver on the moisturizing front. I tested it under various conditions and the result is always the same: needs supplement. While at $140 for 1 oz it's about half the price of the heavy guns, it's still way too much for a non moisturizing day cream (and the pure amber extract? I don't buy it).

Skyn Icelandic Relief Eye Cream with Biospheric Complex
(Have you noticed how all these products are a mouthful?)
An eco-friendly eye cream full of good intentions but does diddly squat on those mornings one needs extra help to perk up. I've been spoiled rotten by Lancome Secret de Vie Eye, so it's hard to compromise. Works great as a lip balm, though.

Arcona White Tea Eye Makeup Remover
I usually love Arcona products. They tend to smell great and feel wonderful on skin. The high concentration of plant extracts doesn't hurt, either. But when it comes to removing eye makeup this product is a dud. It takes a lot of product and too much rubbing to remove my mascara and eye liner, and even then it's never 100% clean. Completely unacceptable.

Image: synergizedsolutions.com. Some rights reserved.

Shiseido White Lucent Brightening Moisturizing Cream

Unlike Buffy (in the picture above), who is always white and glowing, my main skin care concern is brightening and fighting sun damage.

I picked the Shiseido White Lucent Brightening Moisturizing Cream on a whim, just because it looked promising and I wanted a change in my skin care routine (one doesn't become a beauty blogger without the endless curiosity about products and a minimal attention span). This is a rich product and contains vitamin C and some other brightening agent, so I incorporated it into my regimen by dropping my regular vitamin C serum and using the cream only at night while continuing to use my regular moisturizer (which is quite an over achiever by itself) every morning.

After over two months of use and nearly finishing the jar, I can happily say that White Lucent Brightening Moisturizing Cream is an impressive and effective product. It doesn't perform miracles and the leftover sun spots/freckles on my left cheek haven't vanished, but it brought them down another notch while the overall texture and color of my face has improved, including some pore minimizing.

The cream is quite heavy, and at first I was worried it was a bit too greasy, but I've realized that if I apply it before brushing my teeth, by the time the electric brush stops buzzing almost all traces of the White Lucent are already absorbed. By morning there's absolutely no oiliness, and my skin looks happy, though ready for its day cream.

I'm so satisfied with the results that I'm about to not just repurchase, but also give the serum from this line a chance and see how it goes. The nice thing about the White Lucent line is that they also offer a lighter version in the form of a moisturizing gel, which would be great for summer (and for those of you with oilier skin). Word of caution for the sensitive and allergy prone: the cream is (very nicely) scented.

Shiseido White Lucent Brightening Moisturizing Cream ($54, 1.4 oz) is available from most decent department stores and at Sephora, which is where I bought mine.

photo and cat are both mine

Saving Face- Erno Laszlo pHormula No. 3-9 Cream

The last month or so included flying cross country, having an evil cold and watching the weather go from fall to evil winter. None of the above is good for one's skin.

I was being good, slathering my face religiously with my regular moisturizer, and on those days my cold threatened to get the better of me, also my secret cure: Vicks Vapor Rub all around my nostrils (seriously. It works wonders and prevents you from rubbing your skin raw when blowing your nose for the 1278th time in two days). But I still had a patch or two of blotchy, flaky skin that could use some extra help.

That was when I remembered the sample of Erno Laszlo pHormula No. 3-9 cream for dry skin and cold weather. I received this the month before and was saving it for a time of need. That time has certainly arrived.

The ingredient list includes vitamins C & E, yeast extracts and emu oil (so beware if you don't use products with animal-derived materials), and it promises improved hydration and reduced puffiness, irritation and chaffing. After a month of nearly daily use, indoors and outdoors, I can say that it helped heal miserable skin and get rid of those flaky patches at the side of the nose. It also did a good job protecting my face on blistery NYC days.

pHormula No. 3-9 is not a substitute for an active twice a day serious moisturizer/anti-aging cream. I don't think it even claims to be one, but I'm making note of it just in case. You'd still need whatever cream that makes your skin looks alive. But it adds an extra nourishing layer of protection and helps with healing if you've been through a rough patch.

The cream is thick and would probably be way too much if your skin is oily. Even for me, a little goes a very long way and lasts all day. Younger skin might find it of the "just sitting on the face" variety (a complaint often heard about La Mer), but some days I really do need a cream that would sit there and do its thing on the surface.

Erno Laszlo pHormula No. 3-9 comes in a 1.7 oz jar which can be considered family-size. There's also a 7 oz option ($550) which would take a village to finish before it goes rancid. While the regular size is priced at $195 (most decent department stores and ernolaszlo.com), you can now get it from Dillards (at least online) for $110. The sample I received was a PR freebie.

Guerlain Super Aqua Serum (and a word or two about Orchidee Imperiale)

My quest for better skin and a perfect serum continues, and sadly, it doesn't look like Guerlain is the answer.

I managed to hoard enough samples of Guerlain's Super Aqua Serum for nearly eight weeks worth of daily use (that's how long it takes to see results with most serums). The stuff in the little blue tubes didn't look or feel very serum-like. It might be all in my head, but I like a thick, siliconey consistency, while Super Aqua was actually a thin lotion that was more difficult to trust. It felt fine and absorbed quickly, didn't seem to clash with my moisturizer and never irritated my skin.

It just didn't seem to make any difference, and I had the feeling my face which was used to more active products wasn't getting the best treatment possible. Vitamin C products seem to work better for me. Or maybe I just haven't found The One.

Speaking of which, long time readers might remember my devotion to Secret de Vie moisturizing cream from Lancome. It's still my number one product, but I've strayed a little and tested Guerlain's pride, Orchidee Imperiale. I only had one sample tube, not enough for serious testing and a full review, but I liked it quite a bit. It felt very similar to SdV in richness and in the general happy effect the cream gave my skin. It was fast to absorb, nourished the parts that needed it, calmed where required and adjusted to the changing weather. Just like Secret de Vie. The difference? While SdV costs $240 for 1 oz, Orchidee Imperiale is $400. At this price I expect to wake up and discover I have the face of Elizabeth Taylor at age 20, eye color included.

Guerlain Super Aqua Serum, $156, (and the entire range) can be found at every decent department store, from Bloomie's and up. My stash o'samples came as GWP from several local Guerlain counters.

Image: Golden Drop by Roberto Carnevali. www.photo.net

Smooth

When it comes to men's grooming, surprisingly little has changed since 1948, when Cary Grant in his movie Mr. Blanding Builds His Dream House was desperately trying to shave in peace (click to watch the clip). Sure, razors are much better and cool gels can save one from the brush (though I know some men still have one and use it as part of their ritual), but the process is basically the same.

One thing that has changed is the after-shave products. The poor souls no longer need to disinfect their raw skin with an alcohol-based liquid that smell of lavender and pine (ouch. Can you imagine inflicting such treatment on your freshly shaved parts?) and have all kinds of creams and balms to choose from.

My husband has been searching for his holy grail product: A cream that combines the soothing and comforting of a good after-shave with an effective and strong moisturizer. He's finally found one that makes him very happy: Biotherm Homme Ultra Confort. He's used several other Biotherm products in the past, and while liking them quite a bit, none of them was The One, until now. Ultra Confort gets his full endorsement.

According to him the product delivers on all the promises and does a perfect job keeping his skin soft and comfortable feeling. I conducted my own little experiment: I tested Ultra Confort on my own face after a deep cleansing session and thorough exfoliating. The cream made my skin feel calm, replenished the lost moisture and made it incredibly smooth and soft to the touch. I was quite surprised at how good it felt.

I wonder what Cary Grant would have said.

Photo and clip from ShaveBlog.

Manly Business

The Blond learns fast. Once he realized, some years ago, that skin care is less a female mystery ritual involving goats and chanting, and more "things we do to make our skin feel good and maybe not look ugly", he started helping himself to whatever I was using at the time. However, he always looked at the bottles and jars suspiciously, asking "Is this really good for men?". Some were, some weren't.

He was quite happy when we received a couple of products from Biotherm's men line. I also gave him the Healthy Difference moisturizer lotion from the regular line, since he was in need of a good lightweight hydrating product. He works in the city, and needs extra protection against pollution and free radicals (and whatever else that lives in NYC subways).

Here's what he had to say:

I'm not only blond, but also quite pink all over. I burn easily and avoid direct sun as much as possible. When I do go out on sunny days I've learnt to use sunscreen. The Age Fitness SPF 15 has a nice texture and is not too oily. The fragrance is supposed to be olive leaf but is neutral enough for me. It is a light cream for everyday use and is not sufficient for a day at the beach, but for my urban adventures it works fine.
(editor and wife says: It also doesn't clog pores, a problem he occasionally had with other products.)

The other product from the men's line I’ve used is the Facial Exfoliator. It does the work and is not too hard on my sensitive skin nor leaves the skin to dry afterwards.
(editor and wife says: It's gentle enough that he doesn't require a stronger moisturizer than normal, while his skin gets clean.)

The Healthy Difference moisture lotion is also light and effective. It had become my moisturizer of choice pretty quickly. The one thing it's missing, is more soothing effect for a sensitive skin.
(editor and wife says: We'll need to get him the Aqua Sensitive anti-redness formula. Still, he hasn't complained about feeling dryness since starting this regimen.)

I only wish that more companies would offer an aftershave lotion that will focus on skin conditioning and protection rather than the scent value. My main need in the morning after a shave is a good cream that will fill all 3 functions: Soothe, Moisturize and Protect against the sun. I need 3 different creams now.

I think we are both glad I have my own set of products now.
(editor and wife says: Indeed)

So says the husband. All in all, I can see an improvement in his skin's texture. I can't say how much of it is the actual products and how much was simply the result of sticking to a good skin care regimen, which Biotherm products are making it quite easy to do so. The packaging is inviting and pleasing without looking fussy, which is especially important when trying to get a man into a skin care routine.

Biotherm products are now sold exclusively online. You can get free shipping on your order by using offer code biothermevent01 (you'll need to register to the e-club, which is free).

One of the questions I'm often asked is "What's the best brand?". Everyone wants to find that one cosmetic company you can always trust and buy blindly. However, as appealing as this idea might be, it's not that simple. From the sad but true fact that something that works for one person (be it a color or a skin care product) might be terribly wrong for another, to the even sadder one that every company that I can think of, including my most favorites, has some flops in its line.

I'm not entirely sure in which of the above categories to place L'Occiane's Honey Face Cream. I love their bath and body products. I use several of their body washes and lotions and consider their Ultra Rich Shea Butter Cream as my holy grail and the standard measure for any good body product. But my little skin care detour with a sample of this honey cream was pretty awful.

I should have guessed it's not for me when upon application the cream just floated there on my skin, not absorbing or moisturizing. The morning after breakouts were my punishment for this one night stand. I will not be messing up with my current routine any time soon.