Guerlain Secret de Purete Cleansing Milk

It's a good thing the GWP tube of Guerlain Secret de Purete Cleansing Milk I have is reasonably generous in size, because once I get going it's hard to stop. Very hard to stop.

This milky cleanser is of perfect consistency (I have a pet peeve about lotions that are so runny they can't stay on one's face long enough to do the job) and feels heavenly on skin. And it removes and disposes of every last drop and fleck of dirt and makeup- no matter how much I have piled on or what bizarre color experiments I've been conducting- 60 seconds of cleansing and it's all gone. The product makes the makeup removing ritual into an almost spa experience right here in front of my mirror. It has something to do with Guerlain's tendency to make wonderfully scented products- both their skin care and makeup. Of course, not everyone like it, but if you have dry skin and you're not averse to scented products, this is a great one.

Guerlain Secret de Purete Cleansing Milk ($48, 200ml) is available from most decent department stores.

Photo: Corbis

Cle de Peau Malachite (201) Eye Color Quad

The problem with the beautiful new eye shadow quad from Cle de Peau is sparkle. And lots of it. Lots and lots and lots of sparkle, which is probably not what one wants from an ultra high-end brand.

I couldn't resist Malachite (#201). The coordinated quad of rich green, taupe and other neutrals is gorgeous, the texture silky smooth and they blend together effortlessly. A couple of strategic brush strokes and I have an elegant look with just a hint of eye popping green. It's lovely, really. Except for the sparkle/micro-glitter/whatever  fallout which takes longer to clean up than it takes to apply three or four colors from the palette. And then there are the particles that are left on the skin, which I'm not sure are entirely office-friendly. I'm pretty sure if I would have kept the quad for after-hours  if I were still teaching fifth grade math.

Which is really a shame. Such a beautiful palette (even if the pattern you see in the photos is just an over-spray and disappears the first time you swipe a brush over it) should get a lot more use. And I shouldn't have to frantically scrub my cheekbones to get rid of glitter before leaving the house.

The funny thing is that when swatching the colors at Saks and at home- both for the photos and when I showed the quad to a young cousin- the glitter barely showed. Yes, it's shimmery but you only get the full effect when applied on your eye lids.

Bottom Line: pretty but cranky is not a good look.

Cle de Peau eye color quad ($55, the refillable case is sold separately for $25) in Malachite and four other colors can be found at Saks, Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus.

All photos are mine.

Cle de Peau La Creme

When do the big guns become too big?

Do we really need a $500 per oz moisturizer?

For me, it all comes down to visible results. I'm willing to pay for a serum that makes sun damage fade faster, for a moisturizer that heals stressed skin and for anti-aging products that keep my face younger looking. As long as I can see that. I don't care much for the faux-science babble on boxes and inserts, this molecule or that molecule, bio-something or other, magical orbs... whatever. Just make me look pretty.

My expectations are within a normal range. It's not that I hope a cream would make my nose smaller and my chin more pronounced. It's all about having a smooth, supple and even skin, or at least its equivalent for someone pushing 40. And so far so good. Most serious companies that have the research budget offer us a wide array of very effective products.

The problem starts when a product is obviously good- like Cle de Peau's La Creme. It's an excellent moisturizer that also has anti-aging and brightening properties. I can't really comment on the latter because I've been faithfully using Cle de Paeu's Anti Age Spot serum and seeing wonderful results for months now. My skin hasn't been so even since my teens. I'm also using several other excellent products, mostly by Lancome and Kanebo Sensai) that replenish moisture and retain it. When temperatures drop, after flights and/or on skin emergencies I reach for the miraculous Erno Laszlo PHormula 3-9. They all work.

If I were to go for a full jar of La Creme (I've been going through several samples and travel size GWP jars for the last six weeks) would I be able to forsake all other skin care products? Would I use cheaper cleansers, only one drugstore serum and nothing else? No brightening serum? No masks? It's highly unlikely. And does La Creme gives me better results than my trusty Secret de Vie? Not at this point.

Decision made.

Cle de Peau La Creme ($500, 1oz or $750 1.7oz) is available at select department stores.

Cle de Peau Extra Rich Lipstick (R3 Leonardis)

Cle de Peau lipsticks are as good as it gets. The coverage, texture and finish look like a million dollar, which is a very good thing considering the price. Their regular lipstick has been my secret weapon for nearly a year now, and its performance still amazes me. I didn't think it could be topped, but the new(ish. I've had it for two or three months now) Extra Rich Lipstick has proven me wrong.

Cle de Peau has taken the smoothness, weightlessness and tenacity of The Lipstick and combined it with Vitamin A Acetate which delivers moisturize and serious smoothing without gooping up or looking balmy. It almost erases the lines on the lips and I've watched in awe how it makes the tiny scar on lip nearly invisible. The Extra Rich lipstick has its predecessor's amazing staying power- it stays on throughout lunch or dinner and even retains most of the finish. The color barely transfers to a glass or a cat (my white cats often sport kiss marks on their foreheads) and there's no need to reapply for about 6 hours.

The Extra Rich Lipstick only comes in eight shades. I tried all of them at the counter but the only one that looked good and came home with me was R3, Leonardis (the full name only appears on the Cle de Peau website, it's not on the box or tube). Sometimes having a funky skin color saves me money, but I would have loved to have more options in this range. R3 is a medium berry red. It has quite a presence but isn't too out there and I can easily wear it during the day with minimal other makeup. It perks up the face and looks juicy and alive, but also very elegant and grown up.

Bottom Line: Love doesn't even begin to describe it.

Cle de Peau Extra Rich Lipstick ($60) is available at top department stores from Bergdorf to Saks, including their websites.

All photos are mine.

Cle de Peau Beaute Anti Age Spot Serum

I have quite a few new skin care secrets and discoveries to share over the next couple of weeks. I'm seriously giddy about the effectiveness and overall fabulousness of the new products top companies have been releasing. Skin care has come a long way since the days of cold cream, and we're the ones who benefit from it.

Many of you have been following my quest to get rid of some unfortunate sun damage that took up residence on my face in the form of freckles, dark spots or whatever you want to call them. Cle de Peau labels it "Age Spot", and I don't really mind as long as their serum actually works. And it does. I've mentioned before that I saw some change about 10 days after I first started using the serum. I wasn't entirely sure, but certain areas like the top of my cheekbones seemed a little lighter, more clear maybe, and a recent light scar (roughhousing with a cat is dangerous) has faded and disappeared almost overnight. But you shouldn't draw any conclusions until a minimum of 6 weeks using this kind of products.

So here I am, more than eight weeks later and I was right about what I saw in early May. But the biggest change doesn't even require spending hours gazing at myself. I have two annoying spots on my left cheeks. They've took up residence there about five years ago and I've been going after them with lotions and potions for several years now. The spots used to be a lot darker and more obscene, and in the beginning almost touched each other. Both faded quite a bit since then, the lower one has shrunk somewhat and the distance between them gradually grew. That has always been one of my indicators that the creams and serums were doing at least something. Now, the lower one is nothing but a dot and the bigger one while certainly present and noticeable, is much lighter and can be mostly covered by heavy duty concealers and foundations.

The overall feel of my skin is supple, soft and moisturizers seem to be absorbed very effectively. It's not that I've become Snow White or anything, but my skin is brighter and happier. So am I.

Bottom Line 1: Worth each and every one of the pretty pennies it costs.
Bottom Line 2: Wear your sunblock. Seriously.

Cle de Peau Beaute Anti Age Spot Serum ($155, 1.3 oz) is available from top department stores and select Shiseido standalone boutiques.

Images-
Snow White: teenangster.net
Bonne Bell ad with Cheryl Tiegs- Glamour magazine, July 1968: myvintagevogue.com

Cle de Peau- The Mascara

My local Cle de Peau SA was very excited about their newest mascara, the one called "The Mascara". Her enthusiasm was contagious and the promises in the marketing materials even more so: it lengthens! it curls! it creates drama and volume! Who can ignore all that, especially since Cle de Peau is one of my favorite brands?

Let's start with the good: The mascara has a nice glossy black finish. It dries quickly, stays on all day and doesn't flake or smudge even when I accidentally touch my eyes. But that's about it. Performance, both volume and length-wise is nothing more than decent. There's absolutely no drama there and the result is less than impressive. The curved brush emphasizes the lashes in the outer corners but application is not even. This mascara is so atrociously expensive- compare Cle de Peau's $50 price tag to Kanebo Sensai Mascaras ($25 for the 38 Degree mascara and $32 for the Volumizing one) or Giorgio Armani Eyes To Kill, which is one of the very best mascaras on the market today ($32). I'm all for luxury and finding the best products money can buy, but this is not the one.

Bottom Line: Avoid.

Cle de Peau The Mascara ($50) is available from top department stores. I bought it at my local Saks.

Photos by me.

Cle de Peau Beaute Luminizing Enhancer Base

Clé de Peau Beauté Luminizing Enhancer Base is not your average makeup primer. It takes a bit of adjustment- the first couple of times I ended up with a bit of a Kabuki face because it's pearly white, not sheer. The base targets and evens skin tone and not necessarily texture, so my guess would be that if you need a primer to fill lines or scars and provide a a smooth surface, this Cle de Peau product might not deliver. However, it does affect the foundation and finish, so there is a visible smoothing effect and at least some enhancing of your foundation performance and lasting. Not as much as most silicone primers that really cement your makeup in place, but enough to make a difference.

So what does the Clé de Peau Beauté Luminizing Enhancer Base actually do?

Mostly, it brightens and gives the face a subtle and an unidentified glow while reducing the appearance of discolorations, uneven skin tone and dark circles. I'd say it's like Nars Brightening Serum on steroids, or maybe with a hefty dose of Touche Eclat. I saw a significant difference when using the base on the dark circle under just one eye compared to the other one. I tried taking photos, but this is beyond my skills or my camera's capabilities, so you'll have to take my word for it. This photographing experiment has also shown a certain glare that affected the pictures. I'd strongly suggest consulting with an experienced makeup artist before you wear it for a photo shoot.

Clé de Peau suggests adding a coat or two for darker areas, and that's true. Unlike most primers, this base builds up. It can also be used over your foundation with very nice results (again, be careful  if you're using it before having your engagement picture taken). I also mixed some with sheer coverage foundations (Chanel Vitalumiere) and with a tinted moisturizer. It worked every time. Used under mineral makeup, the Luminizing Base requires a very light hand and cautious when buffing the minerals. It required some practice, but once I got it, the results were great. Just make sure your skin is very (VERY) well-moisturized. At least if you're my age and trying to look alive.

Which brings us to two usage tips:
1. Despite claims, the base is not an adequate moisturizer for normal to dry skin.
2. Avoid your eyebrows, or better yet, use brow wax or something similar to protect them. It's a hassle to get the liquid out of the eyebrows, and I promise you, pearly white is not a good look for that part of the face.

Bottom line: Probably not a must-have, but used judiciously it can be a great addition to the makeup addict arsenal.

Cle de Peau Beaute Luminizing Enhancer Base ($90) is available from top department stores, including online. I bought it at my local Saks and highly recommend you get a SA/ MUA to demonstrate it before you buy. Thankfully, Cle de Peau people are among the best you can find and they seem to be extra passionate about the line.

Image: vintage Japanese cosmetics ad from oldorientmuseum.com

Cle de Peau Extra Silky Lipstick (117)

They weren't kidding about the "extra silky".

This Cle de Peau lipstick is one of the softest, smoothest lipsticks I've tried. It's almost like a balm, but with great coverage and excellent pigment (though some of the lighter shades are a bit more sheer). The staying power isn't as amazing as the regular lipsticks, but there's only so much you can expect from a super moisturizing lip color. I chose no. 117, which as you can see is a reddish plum, but I already see a couple of others in my future.

A couple of warnings: The lipstick doesn't retract, so only expose a little for each use. Also, never leave it in the car or expose the tube to direct sunlight. The super melty texture doesn't like heat. I took the photos on a warm day outside and you can clearly see the effect in the swatch picture.

Cle de Peau Extra Silky Lipstick ($50) is available from the best department stores. I bought mine from my local Saks.

Clé de Peau Lipstick (No. 15)

This Cle de Peau lipstick was an impulse purchase. I was actually looking at the eye shadow palettes at Bergdorf, trying to decide between two (and wishing I could combine two colors from each), when I spotted No. 15 in the display and decided it would do me more good than the eye shadows.

Clé de Peau lipstick (no frilly and ridiculous name. Just "lipstick") No. 15 is a berry red. The frosted/metallic finish you see in the tube is just an overspray- the actual texture is satin with micro shimmer. It's a medium shade- bold enough to spice up a simple dress, but will not look like it's wearing you.

But the real story is the texture. I have many lipstick loves, but none has this weightless feel while giving an excellent coverage and long lasting pigment. And in "long lasting" I mean that it survives lunch. The sheen fades, but the color stays in place despite the best efforts of the soup, a bagel and a bottle of water. I'd imagine it can be a good choice if one is heading out for a business lunch.

Bottom line: As long as you find your perfect color it really is worth the money.

Cle de Peau lipsticks ($55) are available from Saks, Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus. The swatches on the websites are utterly ridiculous. I think that customers who spend this much on a lipstick deserve a much better online shopping experience.

Photos: mine.

Cle de Peau Intensifying Cream Eyeliner #103

I'm usually a huge fan of Cle de Peau makeup. Almost nothing can beat their silky textures and heavy duty performance, but the Intensifying Cream Eyeliner is a disappointment, especially considering the beautiful color (and the price tag!).

For $60 you'd expect your eyeliner to look refined and to practically apply itself (and maybe make your tea in the morning). But this Intensifying Cream Eyeliner is too dry and doesn't go on as smoothly and easily as I had hoped. It's not bad, but compared to gel eyeliners (Bobbi Brown or Lancome), this cream is simply not good enough. Application is definitely not a breeze, especially if you want good control for drawing a fine line, even with the great Cle de Peau brush that comes with the eyeliner (you need to take it into account when gasping at the price, since the Bobbi Brown eyeliner brush is sold separately and costs an extra $25). The cream doesn't yield the way it should.



The color of #103 is a very pretty blue/gray steel. It has a little shimmer (the same level as the pearlized Bobbi Brown gel liners), doesn't smudge and has a superb staying power. The pattern you see in the pre-use photos doesn't affect the product's color. It rubs off as soon as you start using the pot.


Bottom line: Not worth the price despite the excellent brush that comes with the eyeliner and the pretty color.

Cle de Peau Intensifying Cream Eyeliner is available from Bergdorf Goodman, Saks 5th Avenue and Neiman Marcus.

Photos and dark under-eye circles are mine. I quickly swiped a very contrasting eye shadow in a an unmatching warm tone to make the eyeliner's shade stand out a little more for the picture.